Seeking a 1926 engine with all correct parts. Wide peddles, wide brake drum, NH carburetor, Hogshead ears for bolting to block, correct beefed up clamps for manifolds etc.
Seeking a 100% complete engine with all parts including and not limited to, starter/Bendix, generator, carburetor, fan, crank, transmission bands, all/correct nuts, bolts etc.
Does not need to be running but should turn over.
Please be prepared to send pictures.
Please be located within a days drive of Dallas Texas.
Looking to buy by the way...
Damn, I have a freshly rebuilt unit I was looking to give away.......bump
I could help you, but you'd have to drive fast to get to Minnesota and back in a day.
Andy you do have a '26? I'll keep that in mind incase I do not find anything closer.
I don't know about Texas, but in Washington state 9 out of 10 (or worse) 26-7 blocks seem to have something wrong with them. I have 50 blocks and all of them have a problem of some sort. Cracked valve seats, broken castings, cracked water jackets, over bored, cracked cylinders, rusty surfaces - to name some of the issues.
Funny we did a '25 a project or two back and it took 7 blocks before we got a good one. Same kind of problems.
Im with Tom on the problems, It took 6 complete engines and 6 more transmissions to get enough good parts to build my 1927 engine. I still had to buy a new reverse drum installed on a good gear. All engines had the same problems he listed.... But I suggest to not get rid of the bad blocks. In a few years that will be all we have left to work with. I also keep all my cracked trans drums, if the gear is good. That is becoming the next choice. Good drums can be found still yet, but not for long.
I can't believe that there is anything seriously wrong with any blocks that can't be repaired. Cracks are not a big deal...missing pieces might be. What am I missing??
why the 26/27 blocks? did they change the metal mixture for the block?
John, All my blocks can be repaired. Most have a water jacket crack or two. Some have cracks between the cylinders, They can be sleeved, Others have already been bored to greater than .030, It is unusual to clean up at .040 if already at .030. So that only leaves .060 which I have done but Im not comfortable with. That leaves sleeving, which costs a lot. The cam bearing bores are sometimes worn, so that is another machining cost. Right now a good buildable block can still be found, but it took six to get me enough good parts not requiring a lot of extra work. But when the time comes the blocks requiring the extra work will be all we have to work with. I do not see anyone casting new blocks in the near future. I also predict the 4 dip pans becoming a problem to find good ones. They are out there, but getting harder to find every day. So some day soon I will be repairing all my rusty, broken ear, stripped threads, 4 dips that I have in reserve.