Let the argument commence.
brass/bronze = dry
Bronze can be miserable to machine unless your cutter is dead sharp and has the correct rake, then it will cut like butter. Brass is way more forgiving and easier to machine/cut. I don't believe any supplier is supplying this bushing in bronze...only in brass, though bronze is vastly superior in this application (brass isn't really that great of a bearing material, while bronze is excellent)
Scott, the brass/bronze issue is what sent me shopping online. But then I called Steve Lang. He looked up the manufacturer's specifications. Although Lang's catalogue says brass, the bushings they sell are actually bronze. I looked up the number stamped on the the ones they sent me, and yes, they're bronze. I didn't ask Glen, but I suspect his are the same.
Steve, bronze is a harder material than brass. As Scott stated, dry is fine but a little cutting oil won't hurt a thing and may slightly improve the finish. Good luck. Bob
SAE 660, CDA 932, C93200 all refer to the same "Bearing Bronze" and is the standard bearing material used in most applications. This is the same material used in transmission bushings and rear cam bushings. I'm not sure what's used for the king pin bushings.
Keep in mind that the shackle bushings are not bearings per say. There's only about 30 degrees of rotation and all the stress is to one side. In truth, SAE 360 Brass DOES make a better bushing for shackles. 360 Brass has over the twice the yield strength of 660 Bronze. The 360 Brass is also harder because of the high zinc content. Zinc is an excellent antifriction element.
Too many people key off the word "bearings".
Robert - Just so you'll no longer be misinformed, Bearing Bronze (SAE 660) is NOT harder than free machining brass (SAE 360). It's the other way around.
There are many alloys of copper that make up bronze and brass. Too often, the alloys fall into a single group name and assumptions based on one alloy is spread to the entire group. It's important to describe the alloys by their CA or SAE number when making comparisons.
Don't take my word for it. Look up the two alloys on Mat Web or Engineer's Edge.
Steve, I'll show my ignorance here: don't springs use steel bushings? Brass or bronze sure would be easier to machine!
In the dark, Terry
Steve posted a couple of earlier threads discussing the merits of steel vs. bronze and his efforts to remove the original steel bushings:
Bronze should be cut dry or with kerosene, but not with cutting oil. At least that what my old lathe manual told me.
I like to use an expansion reamer for doing spring and perch bushings. Most of us use used shackles, and it's easier to get a controlled fit that way. I also use an expansion reamer for NOS shackles too, and I NEVER use steel bushings. Glen Chaffin has an excellent supply of bronze bushings.
What size and where do you get an expansion reamer for T shackles. I am about to do a set on my 26 T.
Just an observation. I shy away from straight cut reamers, favoring spiral cut reamers. Reason is straight cut flutes enlarge the hole. I learned that lesson the hard way when reaming lifter guides. The enlargement probably won't make a difference in shackle bushings since the clearances aren't critical.
I agree you can do better than 932 bearing bronze. One I use a lot on bushings is 544 phosphor bronze. If you get the leaded variety, which is all I seem to find for sale, it cuts almost as easy as bearing bronze. A drawback is that I couldn't find it in tubes, only rods.
Good to know about 360 brass, Ken.
I bought most of my expansion reamers from Sears. Whether they still carry them is another question. I would think McMaster Carr would have them too?
For as often as you would use an expansion reamer if you had one.......these are all you need: http://www.use-enco.com/1/1/93659-hss-hand-adjustable-reamers.html