Ok, I put in a new starter switch, sanded the frame to negative battery connection. Some times the coils buzz and sometimes they don't . The car ran great last weekend. I go to start it today, no buzz so I left the key on battery and slowly hand cranked it, still no buzz. I know the battery is fully charged.
DO you have the battery feed to the car on the battery side of the new starter switch? If it is on the starter side there will only be voltage there when the starter is cranking.
The switch is wired up correctly, it has started up many times with the new switch. Thank you for your reply.
I think the problem is your new switch. They are simply no good. I was there also but mine stops during the rides on a bump or a turn or ...
just open it and tap with a small hammer on the battery spot to push the terminal deeper in the plate than grind the plate with sand paper on a flat surface and it will work.
PS. Since than I have always a jump wire in the car to connect the yellow terminal on the connecting block to the coil box terminal at the battery spot.
Then, I'd do some checks with a voltmeter or a test light. See if you are getting voltage to the coil box. If not there is a problem with the ignition switch or associated wires.
I see that you have a 1927 roadster. You can check the coil box voltage at the terminal underneath the box toward the back. When the ignition switch is on, there should be 6 volts here.
The imported starter switches are marginal at best - the USA made ones although not an exact copy, are superior.
Thank you everyone for your advise.
I am trying to trace the trouble now. It seems there is no power to the coil box
Thank you everyone for your advise. I am trying to trace the trouble now, it seems there is no power to the coils. This same problem was happening to the original switch and now with the new switch
Randy, forgive me, I think I was confused. I had thought you were talking about the starter switch, the switch you step on, but are you talking about the ignition switch, the one with the key?
Sorry for the confusion. It was the ignition switch I replaced, not the starter switch on the floor. However the problem of no power to the coils was still there.
I've replaced 2 ignition switches on my 26 touring and coupe. Both of the replacements are very "touchy" in terms of reliable electrical contact. This is to say turn the key too far in either direction and no contact, battery or magneto. On 1 I have now replaced the switch with a spdt toggle switch, in a box that I placed in the front seat, and the electrical functions are perfect. No, It's not original in any way but.....it works and no holes in the dash to hold the switch.
Same here, the new switch back was worse than the old worn one. I dug through my pile and found a perfect fiberglass back that is working great. PK
This is What I used on my 1926 Touring. Replaced it all with and original switch from Ebay (Gunman63) thanks Mike.
Randy to test the electricity to your coil box use a test light with a 18 or 21W lamp. You need tension (V) and current (A) to make your coils Buzz, With this lamp you test it all.
(Magneto coil ring photo is to show you my test light)