I have discovered the annoying noise beneath my feet is the u-joint telling me it is time to be replaced. I've checked the Forum's past posts for answers but could find any specific to my project.
The car is a '26 touring. Question is: what's the easiest way to get the rear end out after lifting the vehicle and disconnecting all the other bolts 1) remove the spring shackles from each side and slide the rear end out, or 2) disconnect the bolts that hold the rear spring to the frame and drop the whole unit as an assembly. The car looks to have had a frame off restoration sometime in the recent past and all the bolts/nuts are still bright and rust-free.
I've always dropped the spring with the rear end
if just doing the u-joint, just my two cents worth.
Disconnect the rear axle at the spring shackles. It's not likely it's the u joint but more likely in the rear axle itself.
Kevin, a spring spreader would be handy to have, but there are other methods of accomplishing the same thing. I'm sure there will be some others that will chime in here with more suggestions. Dave
I slip a Radio Flyer under the axle assembly, disconnect the spring shackles and remove the rears wheels. The wagon comes in real handy for wheeling the assembly over to the workbench.
I jack the rear up and have good jack stands placed just ahead of the rear radius rods. Pull the wheels, undo shackles, and all the other connections drop the rear end on a four wheel appliance dolly (harbor freight) and wheel it out. Reverse to install. Done it by myself in less then 2 hours.
Similar to what Ted said...after I have the wheels off I remove the nut from the spring perches, gently lower the axle down and the perches usually slide ride out from the backing plate. Sometimes I have to coax it a bit, but it really works fairly simple. Then I just roll the whole assembly out from under the car, springs are obviously still hanging on the car. Two guys can do it easy, I might try something like Eric's Radio Flyer thing under the ball joint to just slide it out myself. I like working alone sometimes.
You can also use one of those hydraulic jacks with the wheels, placed under the pumpkin. I drop the front end of the driveshaft on a soft rag and then back the jack out. (slowly and carefully)
Bud & Kevin...re Bud's comment, this works too, but after seeing Steve Jelf's fantastic tool he made to pick up the whole axle assembly without touching the pumpkin (they say they can break) I bought one from Harbor Freight, it only needed a small mod in order to clear the pumpkin. Works good, brings up whole rear end nice and level. Works on the front axle great too. Just sayin'
Thanks for the feedback guys. Looks like I will drop it by the shackles. Not too worried if it is more than a u-joint. I have a freshly rebuilt Ruckstell rear end ready to go back in if needed.
No need to remove or spread the spring. As Tim says, just loosen the perch nuts and undo the shackles. Here's picture of the home made rear axle jack adapter. Holes drilled and tapped in the jack to attach it.
Steve your idea is a good one, did the same only went a little further with it. I removed the pad on the jack and used a king pin arrangement for the cross piece. I added welding a plate with 1/2 inch slotted holes (for adjustment) towards the front of the T, drilled holes in a 3 inch channel iron ( it was in the scrap pile) about 24 inches long and bolted a mechanical jack to the end (the kind requiring a long 5/16--3/8 handle to reach to the rear) with a saddle to fit drive shaft.
The mechanical jack can be adjusted to support the drive shaft after jacking up the complete housing taking the pressure off the fourth main, the whole thing can be removed with no help. If one wanted it could be taken for a walk on hard surface. Makes easy for installing u joint and closing the fourth main to drive shaft
I have pictures, have no idea how to post and not interested in learning as I seldom or almost never post. Most of my ways are unorthodox and would only cause a stir. Oh I have a water pump on every one of my T's