Still fine tuning the band and clutch adjustment after replacing the totally shot cotton bands with Kevlar. I ran into a common problem that deserves it's own thread. The original thread is here:
With new bands in place I was unable to achieve a good solid low pedal engagement without slippage and have the high gear clutch engage fully. If I adjusted the band so that it worked properly with full engagement about 1" above the floor board the car would creep in neutral because the high clutch was not fully released. If I adjusted for a good neutral there was no low band engagement.
The problem is commonly caused by mis-adjustment of the clutch link as seen in this picture:
The problem is that the link could not be adjusted to achieve the proper adjustment. The link needs to have a minimum of 1/2" of threads in the clevis. The solution is easy - make a longer link.
I purchased a Grade 5 bolt from the local Home Depot that measured 3" grip length in 5/16-24NF thread. Cut the head off with a hack saw, beveled the sharp cut end, drilled a 1/8" hole for a cotter pin, and then bent it 90 degrees in the vise using a BFH.
The new part next to the old part:
New assembly next to old assembly:
Installed final product with parking brake set:
Total cost for this project:
46 cents + 4 cents to the state of Texas.
Royce I have 3 T's and the link adjustment is a little different in all of them.
I did get the correct adjustment so there was no creep and good clutch engagement.
I guess this shows that each T has its own way so to speak.
Your new link seems to show this.
Nice work Royce.
Now throw the new part in some muriatic acid to take off the zinc so you can either paint it or let it rust a little so no one will ever know the difference.
: ^ )
Is it just me, or is that adjusting the linkage according to that diagram is all well and good IFN there is no slop or wear in the parts.
Seems to me that once the holes wear out of spec it's a whole different kettle of fish trying to get a good adjustment.
What do you think is the cause for this replacement - band material thickness or ???
Likely it results from a combination of early pedals, early chassis, and a late cast iron starter hogshead. This might be why the last low bands was destroyed.
Thank you Royce for starting this thread! About half of the Ts I have had required a lengthened link in that location. I have always attributed it to a combination of minor wear on all the involved components.
A couple of times, I have simply used the more common, and slightly longer, type of clevis end. IF, and ONLY IF, the L shaped link and its corresponding hole are not worn much, the longer link can work. Usually, though, if the original link is too short, other parts are worn enough, and so is the L link. So make a new one as Royce has shown!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2