Are you home yet?? I enjoyed meeting you and wonder what you think of TOCF?? Bud.
Hi Bud: I'm finally back online. My 'puter stripped some gears and had to be towed in to the local 'puter den where they put it up on the lift for repairs.
Great to have finally been able to meet you at the OCF. My '14 made it back home just fine (sort of) after the 700 mile round trip with my friend Randy Witz from the Los Angeles area. We had a ball out and back; great weather, lots of smiles and thumbs up. Put my top down for the first time ever. Tore one of the leather hold down straps (note to self: keep the new ones oiled).
The OCF was/is an experience like no other. What a fantastic opportunity and event.
The car blew a head gasket on the way out; not bad but gasses were leaking into the cooling system making it boil pretty good so we had to stop for water about every 20 miles. With the generous and kind assistance of Tom Miller we were able to replace it and all was well until we got about to the OH border when it blew again, same as before. Getting back into my shop, Randy and I pulled the head where he found it was warped about 0.006" around the center water jackets. The head of course had been surfaced when the engine was rebuilt but I had had it done by a local shop who used the table method of surfacing. This time I took it to Bob Ore's Qual Krom facility in Erie, PA; his son has an engine shop in one end of it. Jason milled it properly and I will work on getting it buttoned up this afternoon.
Hope to see you next year.
Glad to hear you made it home ok!! Bud.
RV - Dog gone it, I missed you. I looked all over the '14 parking area, but didn't see your car. Were you parked in the judging area?
Anyway, I'll look you up at Hershey.
R.V. - hopefully it doesn't require a long explanation, but just curious how you were able to measure the variance in the surface of the head?
My guess would be straight edge and feeler stock? Bud.
RV - Did you ever make those spring bolts with the tall heads?
I bet he did. Now that he's retired he has plenty of time to get everything done.
Bud, you are correct; a mechanic's straightedge and a feeler gauge.
Rich, they are in process but not ready for release yet. Shouldn't be much longer.
Steve, ya right. LOL.
A good copper head gasket should not be affected by .006" discrepancy in surface flatness. I bet the reason it blew was a bit of oil on the surfaces.
When you install the next head gasket be sure all the surfaces are perfectly clean first. I like to clean the head and the block with scotch brite and MEK, but you could use any number of degreasing solvents just as effectively. Do it several times, to be sure there is no trace of oil residue.
The head gasket should be hung by a wire and sprayed on both sides with either Copper Coat or flat aluminum lacquer (my favorite). Let the coating dry to the touch, then immediately (don't wait more than 15 - 20 minutes) install the head and gasket on the block.
Tighten the bolts evenly using the Ford tool starting in the center and working your way out.
Royce - That's kinda where I was going with that question. I was surprised that small of a gap would make a difference and wondered if my original Ford head was that precise.
But you learn something everyday and that's why I asked . Something to put away in the memory banks for future reference when you run into problems.
Well, it appears that the block surface is also out about the same amount in the same area. The replacement gasket out at the OCF was coated with copper spray and torqued to 55, which should have been enough if the surfaces were close. If I can, I will post some pics of the suspicious areas on the gasket. I have trouble with real close close-ups.
R.V. I can feel you frustration as I am going through the same situation at this time. The engine was rebuilt by a reputable Model T engine rebuilding business with both the block and head being milled. I put on a new copper gasket with the black core using copper coat spray, torgue to 50 lbs., warmed up, torque to 55 lbs., ran some then torque to 60 lbs. for good measure. On a resent speedster run it started blowing the water out of the radiator which ended the run for us. On tear down I checked for warpage and found none. Both the block and head have distinct broach marks in them from the milling process. Which caused me to wonder if that was having any effect on its seal. You mentioned yours had been milled using the table method and now was being done properly. What is the proper way and does all milling result in the distinct broach marks?
Royce, I will definatly ensure that all oil residue is removed on next attempt.