Does anyone have an instruction sheet for one of these that they can post? I lost the one that came with it.
I don't remember any instruction sheet. Here are pictures of how it mounts in a typical installation with Rocky Mountain brakes.
Hard to see in the pictures but the center shift arm is welded to the shaft after the appropriate position is determined. The set screw won't keep it in place long.
|LH Ruckstell shifter|
L.H. Ruxstell shft lvr.PDF (41.2 k)
Is that something like a left handed smoke shifter, A bucket of spotted paint, A universal sky hook?
If your T does not have a battery behind the driver, under the floor, you can go directly to the left shifter from the rear axle.
Just extend the hand brake slot in the floor and use an L bracket on top of the frame for the shifter.
Another neat way to shift a Ruckstel is to use the rocker shift pedal from a Dual High '28 AA truck. When shifting a Ruckstel you have nothing else to do with your right foot anyway, unless you have an accelerator pedal.
i like the shifter being out of the way, off to the left, but i do not like drilling holes in the flange of the frame rail. the subject comes up a lot with the old speedster guys, and it usually will crack the frame where the hole is drilled. i remember a humble howard story of a rail cracking while a long ways from home
This is a bit of a thread drift, but this is how I do a LH shifter without drilling any holes into the frame.
bRENDAN, You could go way out and leave it as it is and convert to RHD!!!!
Allan from down under.
So what about the 30 other holes drilled in the top of the frame Clayton? I've yet to see one cracked except at the front cross member around one or more of the rivet holes. I think your "old speedster guys" are hallucinating.
Thanks That is what I needed.
thanks for the neat link
i would agree royce, its puzzeling. original holes were punched?
Please re-think using that slider. Replacing it with a stouter design will make the car much safer IMHO. This has been discussed several times before.
The missing instructions FYI
I would add to the comments about added holes in the frame rails. As a long-time speedster guy, I have seen several frames that have cracked from added holes. There may be something to the original holes, whether it was being punched, or fresh tempering (I have doubts), or what. I have, however, seen several original frame holes that have cracked also. Those do not seem as common relatively speaking as the added holes seem to be.
I have on several occasions added holes to model T frames. Most often, it has been when adding a secondary cross shaft for added rear brakes. (I have often commented how I prefer two total independent braking systems.) Many other additions to speedsters, I try to use existing holes.
The frame under my boat-tail was from a speedster from years ago. It broke at a transmission brace bolt hole. The repair is very old, and gives the car an added character trait. That and me knowing the frame's history are why I keep it that way.
Still, I am not so sure that enticing such failures is a good idea if it can be avoided easily. I am referring to drilling more holes into a frame, of course. Drilling four holes in order to add a brake cross shaft becomes a judgement call weighing the pros and cons of added holes against improved brake safety.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2