In our last exciting episode I got fluid into the master cylinder with air pressure from a shop vac. Then I proceeded with bleeding the brakes. Some folks think this has to be done by two people, one watching at the wheel and the other stepping on the pedal.
But with a twenty foot piece of clear plastic tubing, you can sit in the cab and pump the pedal and watch the bubbles go by. Have the tube going into the reservoir and you can keep circulating the same fluid until the bubbles are out of it. But won't it put trash from the lines back into the master cylinder? Not if you screen it through fine cloth.
With that done, it was time to air up the tires and change the oil. So the truck moved under its own power for the first time in almost two years, as I drove it around in front of the shop and filled the tires. Took it around back again and drained the oil. Then came the next glitch, replacing the filter. The one the computer came up with at O'Reilly was too tall and too wide and in the picture looked like a sock puppet. I asked the guy if you're supposed to make it fit with a great big hammer. The Auto Zone computer showed a real oil filter, but again the dimensions didn't fit. I'll try again tomorrow when Bumper2Bumper is open, but I already know how that's going to go. Time for more online shopping and phone calls.
I think its a six with a bypass oil filter. It may or may not be original equipment. I would open the filter housing and take the element with me to the parts store. You might see if there's a number for it marked on the housing or the element.
Rock auto was one of the first sites I tried. No soap. I did take the old filter with me to the parts stores. That's why O'Reilly's sock puppet was so obviously wrong. I was lucky to find a spare in a plastic bag in my barn, so I can use that. But I think I'd better have some extras for future use. This one still has the Purolator name on it, but the the part numbers are unreadable. I just went to the Purolator website and sent them an email with the picture and the model of truck. We'll see if they come up with a filter.
I remember using just a role of toilet paper in them when I didn't have the funds for a filter, It worked. Back to frugal times AH.
On stuff like that I find NAPA is the most likely to have the right stuff. But they could not get me a filter for a '98 Lincoln MK8 that could go through the suspension to get it screwed on the engine. Auto Zone has three brands for that car, only one would go in.
There are still a few of those old Dodges around, especially on farms and ranches that rely on NAPA
Not cheap, but it looks like there is one on T-bay:
Also looks like Andy Bernbaum has replacement elements for $9.50 each (part number L-285):
No more Bernbaum for me. I'm still waiting for a refund. I'll call Roberts tomorrow and see what they have.
What year and make, engine size. I still have paper catalogs down at my shop. I could look it up in the am and call you. J
1951 Dodge B-3-C (218).
I have a mm model r tractor with a canister filter there is no known replacement by the mm people who claim to know. I found a screw on modern one that fit where the canister went, but the threads were wrong. crank up the lathe make a adapter to fit tractor, on the other end fit the filter. then chick the oil pressure, because it is a full flow. The hole in adapter I made the same size as the one in the canister filter and I got lucky. by the way the ardmore instructions you sent me works I now have a $10 whistle
Steve, my town has an old time mom & pop Auto Parts store that looks like it's been there since the '50s. I have to go there today to pick up a starter relay for my 1971 Plymouth GTX. I'll ask if they have any filter elements for your truck, and if they do, I'll get some, how many do you want?
Better check the cost first. I suppose I should get half a dozen unless they're ungodly expensive. If they have some, get the price and I'll shop accordingly.
Steve, your filter element may be the same as in my 1947 Dodge daily driver (Canadian Dodge, sheet metal like a US Plymouth with Dodge trim). Here is the filter I use, 3-3/8" diameter and 4" tall.
Steve, I just got back from the mom & pop auto parts store in Hillsboro, MO. He didn't have any filter elements for your truck in stock, but his dusty parts book says that a Wix 51011 will fit. I ordered two in return for his trouble, they should come in by the end of this week. I'll put them in a USPS Priority flat rate box and send them to you gratis.
He didn't have my starter relay either (sold his last one to somebody else last week), so he ordered a couple and I'll pick up one when I pick up your filters later this week. In the meantime, I pulled the old relay off the GTX and it tests out perfectly fine on the bench (go figure).
Mark how did you test your relay? Just curious as with a ohm meter it may check good because of a "peak" on the contacts but may not can carry the full load of the starter.When contacts arc and start to burn it can create what I call a peak or sharp spot that is very close if not shorting the contacts.
Mack, you may well be right - I just tested for continuity with an ohm meter.
I did pop the cover off of the relay to check the condition of the points and they looked good, flat with no burning or melting. I did not give them the eagle eye to see if they were making full contact across their whole face. I'm picking up a new relay tomorrow, hopefully that will fix it. If not, there's always the trusty screwdriver...
We also tend to forget a good ground is important on a sillynoid! :>0
Mark, Cancel! Cancel! Cancel! 51011 is the sock puppet they sell at O'Reilly and a bunch of the others. It won't work. The right filter has a hard flat surface at both top and bottom for rubber seals to seat against, like the Purolator in my picture. Today I tried a Wix 51010 which looked just right, but the center holes are too small to fit over the pipe. I did find a 51071 that will work. It's not quite as wide as the Purolator, but the height and the holes are just right, which is the critical part. The width doesn't matter as long as it will fit inside the can.
Chris, that L20700 may be right if the center part is 4 3/16". Again, the narrower width isn't important. It's the height and the hole size that matter. I'll order one of those and see if it measures up.
Check the Fram website. It shows 3 different filters possible and gives dimensions for each.
Steve, I sent you a PM this morning before I saw your update on this thread, I will tell the auto parts guy to send the Wix filters back. Now that you know that a Wix 51071 will work, I guess you can order more as easily as I can, so I'll let you take care of it.
Thanks for letting me know and good luck with the rest of the work on the truck (and roadster).
Steve, I just got back from the mom & pop auto parts place. You were right, the Wix 51011 that he looked up in his old dusty catalog was indeed the "sock puppet". He is sending it back.
Mack, closing the loop - replacing the starter relay on the GTX fixed its problem. Your theory about the old relay points not passing enough current was likely correct.
Anyway, now I can start the GTX without using a screwdriver, so I'm happy!
Steve, I didn't read all the posts, so forgive me if this has already been brought up. My 1 950Dodge B-2GA, has the Chrysler Spitfire engine installed. This was a common swap. This might help with your dilemma. You might want to check in with these guys also, if you haven't already.