I clamped the two pieces together with a hose clamp ground a V along the crack and silver soldered it together. I added a SS 10-32 threaded rod through the two half's. I'm sure it will hold together until the solder melts, that is if it gets hot enough, but maybe the threaded rod will hold it together.
Whatever happens I'm so mad that i did this to a perfectly good manifold that I had to put it back together even if it goes on the shelf or to the dump.
I hate to admit it. But I know that feeling.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
you can use cast iron rods and weld it back together,they are high in nickel.
Getting it correctly aligned is the hard part.
Try pre-heating with a torch or furnace, arc welding with nickel rod, then bury it in sand and let it slowly cool down. I once tried to silver solder on a cast manifold, it was very easy to pop the solder off when I was done. I probably am not as good at it as you are though.
Brass works also, but it requires a little more heat and a manifold is easy to warp.
I save my cast iron rings and use cast iron flux with oxy acetelene. Will work when nothing else will, as was said pre heat and cool in vermiculite. KGB
Jump up and down and kick yourself in the butt for breaking it...but that's OK, now you know they are brittle and you learned something.
Then sit down and order yourself a repro...at less than 100 bucks a shot, you get real good machined ports, they go on straight and stay straight and you get a real nice seat out of the ring and gland gasket, and the exhaust nut goes on easy and tightens up nice...
Yeah, I too kicked myself for doing something similar, but mine just exploded into shards! Got over it, bought the new one...and somehow convinced myself that I actually came out ahead on that one
You can buy a brand new manifold for less than $100. you need to weld that. It gets too hot for silver solder. The solder will melt. The manifold can actually get red hot under certain conditions.
I got a "scratch & dent" manifold from Snyder's for a great price, it is excellent, the only marks it had were a few grinding marks in an area that will be covered up by the carb heat pipe.
Good to hear that the repro manifolds are so well made.
Use a 120v mig. Turn off the gas and run flux core wire. You will be surprised how well this welds cast, but make sure anywhere the weld will be is clean and shiny.
Mike, I'm with George. I broke mine as you did, I brazed it up and then it was warped. I draw filed it but it was still junk. I bought a new repro manifold and nut. Problem solved... no leaks no worries.
A leaky manifold will eventually do damage to the exhaust ports, so by not spending a few bucks now, you will likely spend more bucks later and will still have a bad manifold!
Just my $.02.
I go along with those who suggest a new repro manifold. I bought one from Lang's as my original was so badly warped that it was impossible to get more then the front two rings seated. The repro is such a good match for the original that I can't tell the difference. As was said earlier, the solder will melt. The only way to fix the manifold that you have is to braze it or have a (very) good welder- with a lot of experience with cast iron weld it. The chances are that the localized heat will have warped the manifold and it won't fit anyway. There are some parts that it is just not practical to try to save.