These paper shims were in a box of Model T auction plunder so I have no idea who made them, but he should be ashamed. There's no excuse for this. I'll cut my own.
Why didn't you make them your self. You need just gasket paper a small hammer and a wood bolt.
maybe it just got out of the pool?
Come on Steve, u should know, over time, the gasket has shrunk.
Now we know the reason that the former owner of that box of plunder just wanted it out of their barn!
Just kiddin, Steve.
Maybe the gasket was intended for the later open spool without any flange?
I usually "moisten" paper gaskets prior to use, soak them real good, set them aside for a bit then dab off the excess water, if you're using sealant.
The gasket for that on my TT is made from a Kelloggs cereal box.
Cant get any cheaper than that!
You really don't need it.Just put some gasket stuff in there and bolt it up.It isn't going to leak 600 wt oil much.
I just wipe a very thin coat of grease over both sides of paper gaskets. Helps them lay down, and the hole edges in the gasket tend to slide over the bolt shaft. Old time recommendation in Dyke's Auto Encyl.
I found that a pressing with a hot steam iron will straighten them out in a hurry.
Steve - Careful.
You should know the following points by now:
1. It takes years for Model T part suppliers to make their money back on their investment.
2. You should be thankful the parts are still being made, independent of quality.
3. Model T owners are too cheap to pay for correct parts.
Disclaimer: These rules do not apply to those who make quality, handmade, correct parts that I have gladly paid good money for in past.
I just purchased some new ones and they are just as bad. The easiest thing to do was to trim the center large hole since the bolt holes are large enough to still allow the bolts through even though the hole circle for the bolts is a bit smaller. Since everything about the gasket fit up on mine seemed to indicate overall shrinkage, I can't help but wonder if they were made a long time ago and were wrong from the git go or have shrunk. I would have made my own if I had not already bought these. As others have suggested, I don't think the gasket really is necessary with the advent of RTV gasket maker stuff now widely used by new car makers in place of gaskets in similar applications.
You shouldn't use the gasket anyway unless you want to distance the pinion from the ring gear.
I've seen a shrunk gasket put in water to expand, then left too long and it was too big.
This was a cork valve cover gasket for a 6-71 GM diesel.
I just saw your photo again and it appears you are using two gaskets, one at each end of the spool. The thickness of two gaskets will have a marked effect on your gear lash as well as the degree of plunge on the pinion. Unless you are trying to move the pinion away from the ring gear, remove the gaskets. As others have said, some sealant in those areas will eliminate leakage.
The thickness of the front gasket will only affect the position of the torque tube, not the position of the pinion gear. The pinion gear location is controlled solely by the FP pinion bearing & spool assembly. The thickness of that front gasket will only add to what has to be removed from the upper driveshaft bushing flange. In other words, the front gasket does nothing of value when RTV can be used to seal the joint.
Since Steve referred to the rear gasket as a shim, I assume it's thickness is essential to his gear fit-up.
Ford didn't use a paper gasket there in the first place!
Since it is so far from a fit and even though it came from a T stuff auction, I'm thinking there's a possibility that it's not intended for a T in the first place. Looks to me like it's a similar gasket that someone threw in with T stuff by mistake.
I stated, "In other words, the front gasket does nothing of value when RTV can be used to seal the joint."
I'll add the following, "... unless Steve wants to use a gasket instead of RTV." Still Steve's car to do with as he sees fit. Sorry if it sounded any different than that.
I failed to mention, Ford didn't use a gasket at the front of the pinion bearing housing either! So now you don't have to complain about reproduction gaskets, because they never used them in the first place!
I don't see anything wrong with that gasket!
It just looks like the potato chip my wife won't let me eat!
Call them what they are: shims. Not gaskets.
1 If it has changed with time, the inside opening has shrunk and the outer circumference has expanded. Pretty neat trick.
2 Yes, I make most of my own gaskets (in this case a shim) but I tried this one because I happened to have it.
3 I was trying it out and liked the results without it better.
4 Jerry is correct, the front gasket has no effect on the FP bearing or the pinion gear. I'm going without it anyway. As Larry pointed out, it's not needed. Goo will do.
5 In this case it turns out that I don't need a shim, but that doesn't change the point of the post. If I had needed one, this non-fitting thing would have been a waste of money.
Those "no fit " gaskets have been around forever it seems like. Last week I bought 100 shim gaskets for my Ross steering box project. Slightly bigger and a lot more complicated shape. I got 5 different thickness from .005-.030. All Cnc cut from Mylar. Total cost WITH programming, $130.00. The next run will be under $1.00 each. Mylar shims seal well and keep their shape
Whats next; O-rings???
http://www.grainger.com/search?gclid=CjwKEAjwv9-gBRD5ofn2jd2N0UUSJACcdils7xpq973 6V1NlRU3GOzOVRp6S1mnajCM1xW8arf85yRoC-y3w_wcB&searchQuery=Lufkin+Wood+Folding+Ru le&cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+Supplier-_-Lufkin>Lufkin-_-Lufkin>Folding%20Wood%20Rule>Broad-_-Lufkin%20Wood%20Folding%20Rule&ef _id=U9gV-AAAAIfj9tBz:20140917005945:s
All the above comments not withstanding .... Steve's right, the original maker should be ashamed. That isn't slightly off, its unusable.