I installed a new gas tank and new sediment bulb in my T. To get the bulb tight, it "clocks" the bulb outlet towards the drivers side of the car (which I assume is wrong). I tried using a lead washer but I get a leak. What is the best way to install and seal the assembly?
The bulb should have the outlet pointed to the front. It's just a tapered pipe thread. You could try to start it in a different position in the tank flange, and hope it turns snug at the right spot. Snug is enough. Many times the new tank and bulbs threads are coarse cut, and to snug... the bulb spins to have the lever on the driver's side, with the gas outlet facing front, but that's what you have to do. Original parts most always have that shut-off lever on the passenger side when snug.
For seal I use Permatex, but others use aviation grade Teflon tape. With the tape you could build up the threads on the bulb to have it snug at the right spot.
Thanks Dan. I think I'll try the aviation tape.
Disregard that last part, the shut off lever is always on the driver's side!!.. Duh.
Must have sniffed too much Marvel Mystery Oil in the garage tonight!
Dan, you can't start the bulb in the threads in a different position. There is only one thread, it will start in the same place every time, unless I misunderstood what you meant. Dave
There is/was an issue a while back (not sure if it was remedied) with the female connection that is soldered into the bottom of the repro tanks - it was tapped out too deep and depends on whether one is using an original or repro sediment bulb - the bulb can/will near bottom out before tightening up tight.
i have a new tank and the filler cap has threads cut too big so its very hard to get the the cap threaded on. repo cap too, need to try an original cap
Well, I'm probably wrong on that David. Here's some originals, the threads start at different area, and the lengths very too, so don't know, maybe it affects the union, but with taper pipe probably not, as you posted
Different thread lengths.
And yes, Steve, the repro tanks can be that the flange is tapped too fully, thing is modern pipe thread specs are probably different than old Ford specs, at least that is what I understand.
Some original bulbs fit, some don't seat as well. For sure a new tank and new repro bulb will fully seat, as the threads are made to the same spec, and I guess the mfg. just fully taps the tank flange.
Yep Dan, the varying lengths and such would make a big difference. Dave
Yellow teflon tape is fuel proof. My auto parts store carries it. Cheap and simplest answer.
Use teflon tape on the threads (aviation, plumbing, cheapo) and put a pipe wrench on the bowl and make it in to the point you need it. You wont do any thread damage with just an 18" pipe wrench and your own strength.
I've actually applied solder to the threads of the sediment bulb to build it up to prevent it from "bottoming out".
Also, if you use teflon tape, be sure to leave at least one thread uncovered. If you lap the tape over the end of the threads, the tape will be cut off and get into the fuel system. Just a heads up. Dave