I can't get the coils to buzz. Have sanded and cleaned all connections. If I run a jumper cable from the positive battery terminal to the bottom of the coils box should they buzz ? I would slowly turn the crank to see if I have power to them. Could the timer be bad ? This is a 1927 Roadster.
Original Ford ignition ?? Battery fully charged ?? Ignition switch position completing circuit to coil box ??
To check for the timer. Turn on the ignition to Battery. THen with your jumper Touch the top four screws on the coil box to ground one at a time. Each coil should buzz. If not then there is no power to the coil box. and other tests need to be done. Mike
how many times do we find it is a worn key switch. Wiggle the key while someone turns the crank slowly or you know the engine is tdc.
Dead battery? DO THE LIGHTS BURN?
If the lights don't burn it has to be the ignition switch. OR a dead battery.
Do you still have the original battery cables?
Sometimes the old cables aren't any good.
If you get positive voltage to the common terminal at the bottom of the coil box with the key to battery, ground one by one the top small wire connection at the coil box. With the key on, each coil should buzz and the spark plug should spark when the corresponding connection is grounded. If that test proves positive, your problem is either in the wires between the coil box and the timer, or within the timer.
Note, some people have installed an in line fuse between the battery and the ignition switch. Usually it will be found in the wire connected to the starter switch. If that fuse is blown, you could also have no buzz. Other possible cause would be open wire between the battery and the ignition switch or bad switch.
I will try your methods tomorrow and see where're the problem lies. Battery is charged and the lights and starter work so I know I have power from the battery.
Randy My "T" mentor showed me an easy way to test the timer take an old wire from a voltage tester put an alligator clamp on one end and attach that to ground take the probe and touch each terminal on the timer with the switch in battery the coils should buzz as each terminal is grounded. Great thing about model t's there are many different ways to do the same thing.
I found the problem !
G.R. Cheshire, I got a wire that had alligator clips on both ends. I attached one end to the block and the other to one of the timer contacts, turned the key to battery and got the coil to buzz, did it on another contact with a buzz there also.
So now I believe the timer is the problem. I will take it off tomorrow to have a look.
Thank you for your advise .
Good luck hope it is an easy fix sounds like it
Check your grounds.
If you are using the original battery location, is your ground terminal "earthing" to the frame? Is your coil box grounding properly?
Ron the Coilman
PS If the starter works properly the Battery negative to frame ground should be fine.
""I attached one end to the block and the other to one of the timer contacts, turned the key to battery and got the coil to buzz, did it on another contact with a buzz there also.""
Correct me if I am wrong. The timer's roller goes to ground. Is the roller or "shoe" grounding to the camshaft/engine block? By attaching a wire to the engine block (ground) and one to each of the times terminals, the electrical circuit is completed allowing a flow of electrify to energize the coil (s)
You're right, George.
By testing the way Randy did, he zeroed in on the problem as being the timer.
If, for instance, he had alternately grounded the upper terminals of the coil box, and it worked, that would tell him that the problem was either in the timer or the wires, but not which.
This way, it's a slam-dunk. Timer problem.
Nice going, Randy!
George that is correct but his coils would not "BUZZ" when he rotated the engine with the switch in battery by attaching to the engine block then to each of the terminals on the timer he is bypassing the timer and the coils now "BUZZED" meaning the problem is in the timer (Bad rotor, roller, brush or flapper) now he knows where the problem is he can concentrate on the problem.
I want to thank everyone but especially G.R. Cheshire.I will keep you posted.
What brand of timer was on the '27 engine ??
Ron Patterson, "coil box grounded", never heard that before, what do they do for ground on a wood firewall?
Some other expert asked that question and I was asking WHY.
Ron the Coilman
Santa Fe, Argentina
Buenos Aires is a wonderful place. Reminds me a lot of the cities of Germany not destroyed in WWII. Perhaps it resembles a Pre - WWII look at Munich.
I hope you are travelling to Iguazou falls too Ron. The falls are perhaps 20 times the magnitude and size of Niagara falls. Unbelievable power of nature.
Bob, I am not sure yet on the brand of timer yet as I have not had a chance to remove it but it does have a brown case on it.
Sounds like a "New Day" timer but one without a brush or one that has the brush "stuck". Since you have no buzz at all in any motor position, It almost has to be the brush not grounding any of the contacts.
OK, I'll ask the question. Once the brown timer is removed from the engine is there a rotor that resembles one of the following a roller or shoe. There are other variations all with the purpose of providing a path for current flow. Also for reference see a past Forum posting. Exploded View of Timer
posted by Dan Treace
George the brush in a new day looks like this
the one in the middle is the new day timer and brush the left is a standard roller timer and the one on the right is what I call a flapper timer I have no experience with the one on the right but the standard roller has problems if not properly lubricated and the new day has problems when the brush wears too short.