New with a question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: New with a question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Daniel Kraft on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 12:03 am:

I have a pieced together model t that is half brass era 1916 and half 1925 model t touring car. The engine and radiator and wheels along with some small parts are 1916. My question is, what is running and driving a brass 1916 worth? I don't want to poor the effort and money into replacing the 1925 parts with 16 parts if it won't improve it's value from its current state. What is a mix matched model t touring worth if it is unrestored and running and driving?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Sayer on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 01:44 am:

My opinion drive your T:?) enjoy it, as far as value well I would say for the amount of money you would invest, it's value wouldn't go up much compared to what you invest. However depending how meticulous you want to be and intend on keeping your T for many years do what makes you happy, hard to beat the looks of a meticulous brass era car though:?). Welcome to MTFCA:?). Happy T-ing


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Hood on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 02:03 am:

Daniel, drive the wheels off of it, have fun! You can slowly collect the parts to make it a 1916 and change it later, but it sounds like it would be easier to make it a complete 1925 and save the 1916 parts for another project. Either way, since you are new to the Model T world, you should drive it and enjoy it, but don't take it apart. Many people who are new to the hobby want to have a fully restored original car and charge headlong into a major years-long project without ever experiencing the fun of driving their car. Many lose interest, or run out of time and money, and never finish their car.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 02:50 am:

I agree completely. Enjoy it as is. If the body, frame, and most of the running gear are 1925, it would be easier and cheaper to move in that direction. That would be a little at a time, not a complete rebuilding in one huge bite. Unless, of course, you're retired and have noting else to do. :-) Either way, it has to be just for fun. Don't plan on getting all your money back. That doesn't happen.

These will help:

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 03:33 am:

Here is a rough price guide for Model T's made by David Grant in 2003. Since interest in post brass 20's era cars are generally low among new car enthusiasts, prices hasn't changed much:

"Model T Values - Thumbnail sketch, in United States 48 contiguous states as of Monday 10 March 2003:
Cars and original depot hacks and pie wagons 1917-27:
Parts car only, not restorable: <$1000
Not complete, restorable with a lot of work, engine may or may not run: $1,000
Mostly complete, correct, disassembled, restorable: $2,000.
Mostly complete, correct, recently assembled, restorable: $2,500.
Complete, correct, never disassembled, restorable: $3,500.
Runs, drives, correct, needs total restoration $4,500
Runs and drives, mostly correct, looks like a 10 year old used car: $6,000.
Everything works, not correct (wrong year engine, etc.), looks decent: $6,000.
Everything works, almost all correct, looks decent: $7,500.
Show room condition, correct, needs nothing functionally or cosmetically: $10,000.
Completely "restored" but with incorrect "upgrades" such as pre-1919 starter, incorrect accessories, etc.: $10,000 but buyers will be a different group than previous item.
Rip van Wrinkle: Car stored inside since new, less than 1000 miles: $20,000.
Complete factory type restoration, every nut and bolt reconditioned, completely correct: Ought to be worth $20,000, but the market will not pay much more than $12,000.
Trucks other than original pie wagons: Deduct 50%
Depot hacks, reproduction bodies: Deduct 50%
Speedsters, reproduction bodies: Deduct 50%
Town cars with original bodies: Add 100%
Pre-1917: Add $1000 for each year down to 1909.
Body only: 60% of the value of the car. Chassis only: 40% of the value of the car."

I don't think you can find early 1909-12 brass cars for those prices, they are very rare and hold their value better if correct (there are many predated 20's chassis cars masquerading as early cars) but '15-'16 isn't early enough to make it worth while for the value, You can built a correct '16 for the fun of it if you like the hobby, but it's more fun if you already have a running car while searching for the rare parts.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Wrenn on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 08:30 am:

I would say that's a very rough guide. Bottom line is, a car's worth what the buyer is willing to pay for it and what the seller thinks he can get for it and/or settles for it. My '15 was at a wedding last weekend, very wealthy families from India, everyone thought it was worth $50K and up. One guy who lives on Long Island swore it'd be worth $300K!! Shoulda sold it to him right then and there!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 09:16 am:

"The engine and radiator and wheels along with some small parts are 1916."

Is the frame 1916 or '25? Model T's are easy to work on, and parts are easy to replace with ones from another year. But the part which is the most work to replace is the frame.

I agree with the others that the best thing for you to do now is to drive the car and have fun with it. I also agree with Jeff Hood in that it might be easier to correct yours a piece at a time to a '25 (if it's a '25 frame) while saving the '16 parts for another car. That way, you can be driving and having fun with a T while also having the fun of building your own. Two T's are not too many. :-)

If your car has a '16 frame, then do just the opposite: slowly correct this one to a '16 while saving the '25 parts for another car.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Daniel Kraft on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 10:44 am:

Before I knew anything about model ts I bought this thing out of a barn for 750 bucks completely disassembled including the engine block. I rebuilt the motor correctly and the radiator and wheels are in awesome shape. I have put almost every bolt together on the car by trial and error and a ton of research. I think I will just drive it as is, and in the future look around for a 1916 to put my good parts on.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Daniel Kraft on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 10:45 am:

Thanks for the input.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 11:32 am:

A Model T is worth whatever the buyer will pay for it. You will have the Model T experience whatever year it is, and only if you enter it in a show with judging will it matter whether all the parts are 1916.

If you want it to be a 1916, visit all the swap meets you can find and pick up whatever 16 parts you can find, and when and if you have parts which will fit together to make it look more like a 16, install them. Otherwise, just drive it and enjoy it.

Don't worry about selling it. Most people who have Model T's don't make money on them. They just spend on them until they get tired of spending and then either do one of 4 things. Downsize, get too old to drive, die. So have fun while you can.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 12:34 pm:

Daniel, can you post some pictures of it here? Pictures need to be resized to under 194K to fit on the forum. A resolution of 150 dots per inch and a width of 6 inches works well.

Good luck with your project!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Daniel Kraft on Thursday, September 25, 2014 - 08:57 pm:

I can try when I get the chance.


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