I decided to run my rebuilt engine a bit today. I did find that it starts much easier if you put fuel in the tank. Once I had it running, I noticed a disconcerting sound suspiciously like the fan hitting something. With visions of a gashed radiator in my head, I quickly shut it down and started looking. Nope, not even close to the radiator. Hose clamp? Pretty close, but that wasn't either. It turned out to be this.
Fan blade tips were dinging the ratchet.
The front bearing was loose enough to let the front of the crank sag, raising the ratchet to where the fan could hit it.
The temporary fix was to cut a couple of little shims from an old thinner can...
...and drive them in around the crank. I hope they'll stay in there until I have time for a better fix.
That brings us to the question. I didn't find a sleeve for that in any of the dealer catalogues. I'd like to avoid the hassle of replacing the 3069-B front support. Is there an easier way? I have an idea, but I'd like to hear from those who have dealt with this before.
Whenever I see one of these kinds of threads, I go out to the garage to see what that area of my car looks like. Luckily, my bushing isn't very worn and the fan blades don't get near the crank, but the bushing did look kind of dry, so I took the opportunity to push in the crank and give the shaft a good coating of grease. I also discovered that the crank ratchet on my car has the removable pin with the spring retainer that the vendors sell, thankyou, Steve!
Here's what you need to replace and if it was a "rebuilt" engine, that should have been already replaced in order to check the crankcase on a pan jig.
That bushing in the crankcase can be replaced with the engine in the frame, but lots of trouble sometimes to remove the old worn one, cutting out with hacksaw blade to make it into parts is helpful. But Steve, you know how to do that!
I suppose the shim idea was a good theory, but in the real world, with the engine running, they fall right out.
Mark: I had one of those. The spring broke at the rivet and the pin fell out. Now I use the stock pin.
Steve: Yes, it should have been. It seems we overlooked that little detail. Somehow I missed that sleeve in the catalogue. Thanks for the number.
Thanks for the warning about the spring pin, I'll be sure to keep an eye on mine.
Regarding your shim, maybe make a longer one so that you can pound a flange on it on both ends after it is installed to help retain it?
Rube Goldberg made me do it. Maybe this will hold until I get get a proper bushing and install it.
You could use a fan belt that is an inch longer than the one you are using, that would move the fan about 1/2 from the ratchet.
Steve, if you drill those bolt heads, that support wire could double as a safety wire!
Allan from downunder.
Ingenious, but I hope it is temporary, after 50 years of use that wire will wear a groove in the crank handle.
Remember, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary fix that works.
Did you get that crank support from the Universal Model T Repair Kit?
I just checked a couple of my T's. None have the fan within less than 1/2" Steve. I think your fan belt is too short or perhaps you have the wrong fan or fan bracket?
Though that bushing is quite worn I think Royce has your "easiest thing" answer.
Brian, yes, I did. What else would you use for the Universal Car?
Yes, the bracket and pulleys are correct for the year. And the correct 23" belt that's on there would be OK if not for the cockeyed crank. So I'll order the bushing, and I'll get the next size belt to use until I can get the bushing installed. And if the next size belt is too long, I'll just have to stay with the wire until I put the bushing in.
Steve, if you install a longer belt, don't forget to check for belt rubbing on the timer body.