Head bolt torque: What about the back two?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Head bolt torque: What about the back two?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 11:15 am:

All the others are easy to reach, but I can't get a torque wrench on those two back ones. Shall I just get them as tight as I can with the #2335 and call it close enough?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By R.V. Anderson on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 11:44 am:

I remember reading in the late Ted Aschman's column in the VF that you can get a deep 5/8" impact socket and cut it in half, so you have the socket in one piece and the drive in the other. Braze them together, side by side, so that looking at the assembly from the top it resembles a figure-8. Then you can use the torque wrench on the two back bolts. Ted wrote that it only affects the reading about 5%.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 11:51 am:

If you can get a universal joint socket or an extention with a universal joint on it, you can sometimes torque with the torque wrench. Otherwise, use the torque wrench on one of the other bolts and follow with a box wrench or other wrench which will fit the back two and use on the bolt which you just torqued. Pull until the bolt just starts to move. Then using that wrench on the back two estimate how hard you pulled on the bolt of known torque. It is not quite as accurate as using the torque wrench, but will work if you can't figure a way to use the torque wrench.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Anthonie Boer on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 11:56 am:

Steve; I use this home made socked.
Toon.
1070R
1072R


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Todd on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 12:05 pm:

Hope you can read this:
Torque adaptors


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By R.V. Anderson on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 12:14 pm:

Another thing: I don't know about the 1915, but on my '14 I can remove the dash shield and access the rear two from the passenger compartment.

Mr. Boer has posted a photo of what Ted was writing about.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul Mikeska, Denver CO on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 12:20 pm:

RV

That works on my 14 also but not so much on my 26 Coupe. I have used a welded socket as posted above or a crows foot wrench, with the torque wench in that case.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Vaughn on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 02:29 pm:

I use a crows foot.



Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Owens on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 02:37 pm:

Mike, You can get a crow,s foot for as a line wrench. It wraps around the bolt. scott


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Vaughn on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 03:24 pm:

I just re-position the wrench as it tightens up. Never a problem.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 03:34 pm:

If a crow foot will do it, that's what I'll use. If not, I'll try the shield removal. A swivel was my first thought, but there was no way for that to work.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 03:41 pm:

Steve - When you consider that millions of Model "T's were assembled in the factory without a torque wrench, I can't see a problem with doing those two back ones the same way that the factory did ALL of them. Anyway, that's what I'd do,....FWIW,....harold


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 03:44 pm:

I find it easy to get to the back head bolts using a universal joint on the socket, then an extension to the torque wrench. Using a universal doesn't change the torque applied.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 04:26 pm:

You could always pull the engine.:-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Putnam, Bluffton, Ohio on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 04:29 pm:

Torque the ones you can get at, then use a box end wrench and practice on the 13 bolts you already tightened to see how much pull you need to put on the box wrench to get them to barely move. Apply the same pull on the back two bolts. You will be fine IMO.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul Mikeska, Denver CO on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 04:30 pm:

Remember to reduce the torque setting by 5% to 10% when using the crows foot!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Putnam, Bluffton, Ohio on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 05:14 pm:

Torque the ones you can get at, then use a box end wrench and practice on the 13 bolts you already tightened to see how much pull you need to put on the box wrench to get them to barely move. Apply the same pull on the back two bolts. You will be fine IMO.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 05:55 pm:

^ That's exactly the way I did it....... :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Walter Higgins on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 06:15 pm:

There is a formula for using a crows foot on a torque wrench, but if you keep the crows foot 90 degrees (perpendicular) to the handle, the correction is not needed.

Try getting a flare nut crow (or box is better). Regular crows have a tendency to spread at that torque, especially if a cheapo one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John McGinnis in San Jose area, CA. on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 07:00 pm:

I just tighten them the way they used to do...by feel. Steve Jelf's approach is correct. There is so little compression/combustion pressure that it doesn't take much. I started at age 13 and that worked fine. We worry too much about modern methods. The Model T doesn't care. My high performance Chevy is another story.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Reginald Urness on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 07:06 pm:

weld two sockets together, works great


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Georgetown TX on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 07:23 pm:

Steve,

To have the same torque on all the bolts you should use the Ford tool on all of them. I've found that the most important thing about head gaskets is making dang sure everything is free of oil. The next most important thing is using a good sealant, either KW copper coat or Krylon flat aluminum lacquer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, September 28, 2014 - 11:23 pm:

I just use a Ford Model T head/spark plug wrench on all of them.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary London, Camarillo, CA on Sunday, September 28, 2014 - 11:47 pm:

I bought a crows foot off eBay. You can borrow it for the cost of round trip postage, but you can probably find one on there for about that cost. Let me know if you want to use it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul Mikeska, Denver CO on Monday, September 29, 2014 - 12:06 am:

If you were a Ford mechanic back in the day you would be using your skills on a daily basis. As such you would be able to tighten bolts by feel. I find that I torque head bolts on a T once or twice a year at best. I would rather use a torque wrench than "feel" the torque due to the fact that I don't do it enough to keep it as a daily skill. I agree that the head and block needs to be free of oil and that copper coat or aluminum paint will help seal the head. My T mentor would always used aluminum paint on head gaskets. YMMV.


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