OT- Welding Plastic??

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: OT- Welding Plastic??
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Hatch on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 04:14 pm:

Guys: Need some info about welding a h2o tank on a RV. Got my trailer out for Hershey and the water holding tank is leaking. Looks like a crack. Looked up repairing and looks like welding it is only to fix one. They are suppose to be polyethylene. Hard time finding PE rods. Found others, has anyone here done any plastic welding? What rod will work with PE? Thanks, for any input. Dan.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By R.V. Anderson on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 04:32 pm:

RV's water tank ain't leaking and it ain't plastic, in case anyone's wondering.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul Mikeska, Denver CO on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 04:39 pm:

Dan,

McMaster lists polyethylene welding rod. Check the link below.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastic-welding-rods/=tw7yq2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 05:11 pm:

HF has a plastic welding kit with a variety of rods for cheap. Couldn't get it to work for polypropylene and gave the kit away.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ex trooper on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 06:17 pm:

Dan... POLYETHYLENE is a weird plastic that doesn't take to adhesives. Battery cases and poly tanks are a few of the uses. Ive used this stuff outdoors, and even underwater ON POLYETHYLENE materials and it will provide most excellent and adhesion. Find a strip of stainless steel or aluminum (or a chunk of poly mat'l) and glue on a patch. Scuff with some #60 sandpaper and wipe clean with a "dry" cleaner like brakeclean or alcohol first. Make sure the glue covers 100% of the back of the patch and affix.
Id also suggest wiring or clamping or blocking the patch in place until cured which is well less than 24 hours. You guys can think Im full of gesheist all day long and I really don't care, but ILL PERSONALLY guarantee this stuff works or Ill send you a check. Get it at menards for $4.00 ws

http://www.menards.com/main/paint/adhesives-tape/construction-adhesives/loctite- pl-premium-polyurethane-construction-adhesive/p-1860327-c-7921.htm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Hatch on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 06:27 pm:

Thanks for the input guys. Been out getting the tank out from under the trailer. Going to see what I can do with it tomorrow. Dan


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 06:55 pm:

PL premium adhesive (see troopers comments) is INCREDIBLE stuff.

I built an 18 ft boat with this and NO fasteners at all. Been in water that would shake your fillings out and the PL held up. It equivalent to the marine sealant made by 3m called 5200.

Never used it on poly, but if anything will work, this is it.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ex trooper on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 07:47 pm:

Bud... used 100s of tubes of 5200 and now the fast cure UV 4000. The 5200 would literally pull wood into pieces trying to disassemble. 4000 is almost as strong. The locktite stuff makes a joint and is not "quite" as flexible --- More like a semi rigid plastic. Ive been using this stuff on boat construction where it wont show and $20/tube is kinda expensive for a big job. The LT stuff at $4.00 can not be beat! I wouldnt hesitate to use it on the water tank. A pal used it on cracked black foam filled poly floating docks in the water and ice year round with ZERO failures in 5 years. I was sold!! ws


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By wes heustess on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 11:25 pm:

I am waterfall running whitewater kayaker. I have repaired many pe kayaks. the key is to drill a small hole in each end of the crack. that will stop it from running. the next thing is to bevel the edges of the crack with a razor then slowly heat until moldable. i warn thats its easy to work to gfast and make the matters worse


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By wes heustess on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 11:28 pm:

you can shave plastic from the tank. nothing works like the original. you can also imbed wire mesh into the tank to reinforce


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By wes heustess on Friday, September 26, 2014 - 11:39 pm:

you can shave plastic from the tank. nothing works like the original. you can also imbed wire mesh into the tank to reinforce


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