I've run this engine several times in the past few days and torqued the head bolts a couple of times.
It puts on quite a barforama as it warms up.
The effect of heat on the exhaust manifold paint shows quite a difference in temperature between the front and back. I closed the door and shut off the lights and it wasn't glowing, so I hope it's OK. Unfortunately it seems I didn't use enough sealant around the freeze plugs. I guess I'll have to replace them. Or should I try eggs, pepper, and oatmeal?
An interesting wrinkle is that the porcelain became a little loose in three of the spark plugs. They have new copper crush washers in them, so I tightened the collars just enough to hold the insulators steady. I didn't want to overdo it and break them.
Here's a few seconds of video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=od40VhON6MY&feature=youtu.be
It looks like, (from the picture anyway) you need to seat your soft plugs more.
The plugs should be about 85% from being flat when done.
Good job. It's always Magic when a new engine comes to life. I hope you are breaking it in slowly. That has always worked for me.
It runs like a watch. My White runs like a sewing machine.
Thanks for sharing the fun with us.
Radiator overfilled maybe? I would try to drive the car on progressively longer trips to break in the engine. Sitting in the garage with the car not moving the engine will run hot.
Yep, I'll start driving as soon as I get the rear axle back in and the brakes and wheels on. Sometime tomorrow, I hope. I work mighty slow.
Herm, I tried giving the leaking plug a few more whacks. That slowed the leak, but didn't stop it. I'm afraid I'll have to resort to replacement, and use more sealant than I did before
Number 1 Permatex is the best sealant for core plugs. RTV also works as do many others.
I had the same trouble with the thermo barfing for about a year when I got my rebuilt T engine running. I had a brand new never used radiator too.
I finally put on a Gates fan belt and the problem went totally away. I had to add a cup of water every year or so after that. I think I first had a canvas or leather belt.
Be sure your ignition is advanced far enough...eh, you know that.
When I started up my rebuilt engine in my 21 Touring the new front freeze plug leaked.
I removed the manifold and put a fairly new nickel in it. Been ok ever since. The Jefferson nickels work just as good as a Buffalo. Besides It happened to be in my pocket.
And oh yes I did use a sealant with it.
I always use JB Weld on core plugs. Never had a problem with one.
Do you run antifreeze mixture or just water?
I sure's heck wouldn't put eggs, pepper, oatmeal, or anything in the water/antifreeze to stop a leak. Just asking for future trouble with the radiator.
Where did you get new copper crush washers for the sparkplugs?
Royce, I hadn't thought of that. I'll give it a try.
Dennis, antifreeze mix. That's why you see some green on the carburetor in the picture.
Tim, how about bacon and orange juice to make it a full breakfast?
JB, here's the source. 1/2" ID, 3/4" OD.
A new engine will run warmer during
If you must run the engine with out driving it try putting a big box fan in front of the radiator.
LOL Steve!! That's a good one!
I like to run fresh engines w/water, "just in case". Easy enough to drain it later and replace w/anti-freeze.
BTW, installing a manifold stove may bring the exhaust manifold temp up.
Steve--My car is a 15, and in trying to make it period correct, I've amassed Quite a collection of the early X plugs. Some, in addition to the copper gaskets, appear to have an asbestos ring in conjunction with the copper gasket. I don't know if these are original or added during a rebuild. Maybe someone can shed some light on this subject
This came with some T parts years back, only problem is that someone used up all the ones for the T plugs.
I do the same as Royce - JB Weld. I put a bead in the recessed seat for the freeze plug, flatten it home and then smear the excess that oozes out around the edges of the plug. Paint and forget. Never an issue.