My 1927 speedster is overheating pretty badly. The motor meter is reading all the way at the top. This occurs when idling or driving. I made sure to adjust the fuel mixture and appropriate timing. From what I can tell, this is a pretty costly part. Most places sell them for about $800. I have checked langs, snyders and bergs. Any suggestions on a place that might be cheaper? If not, I would still be interested in suggestions for quality. I think I am going to get the round tube upgrade from the flat tube. Thanks and I look forward to some of the great advise I always receive on this site!
Round tube would be a down grade you want the flat tube type. If money is tight you might try getting the one you have cleaned out and adding a water pump. Yes I know it's a band aid but sometimes it can't be helped. Another idea would to have a new core installed in yours.
The only radiator supplier I know is Brassworks, are there any other suppliers? I need a new core and Brassworks have not responded to my inquires.
For a flat tube, which is appropriate for anything but a judged car, Berg's offers the best radiator and the best deal. I have one; highly recommended. Also, while radiator is off the car, plug both inlet and outlet s with expandable rubber radiator freeze plugs which are available from most auto parts stores and clean your engine's cooling water passages with CLR or equivalent and flush according to instructions.
Most owners will tell you flat tube cools better than round tube.
great advice on cleaning the motor. I did run water through it and it came out good, but I will definitely clean it any way. I definitely don't want a band aid. If I have to spend the money, I will. Just checking to see the best place/price to buy. Thanks all.
Snyder's has lot's of radiators in stock.
Don't skimp on the radiator, especially with a speedster, which you might be pushing a little bit. I purchased mine from BrassWorks. They are probably more expensive than others, but I have zero cooling troubles. AND... when I call them with a cooling question they have someone there that will answer. My 2¢. Mike
Don't be a cheapskate in regard to a radiator. Call Lee at the Brassworks:
They are beautiful. I have two of them and never have any overheating problems. Don't get a water pump.
Send cash and you can avoid sales tax...
Sorry about the price. I was thinking of my '14 brass radiator.
Your '27 radiator is $780. Good news.
Using CLR for a cleaner is in my opinion a great idea. My other half uses it on my coffee pot about once a month, and there is nothing wrong with me because of it.
A good radiator is a must if you intend to drive and have fun with a Model T. Think of good tires. You really cant go a lot unless you have them. Bergs is the way to go. A really nice guy and does great work.
cleaning your waterjacket is always a good cheap first step. if you are worried about dislodging "leak stoppers" in your radiator then isolate the block from the radiator via its removal when cleaning the waterjacket.
I am very tempted to modify t-bucket radiators for us fellas that dont have $780 to drop into a T.
I bought a aluminum 3 core radiator on eBay and had a local shop modify it to fit my speedster. Basically moved the top outlet to the center (increased size to 2") and angled it to mimic the original one, also lowered the side mounting tabs to accommodate my front shroud. I am using an electric fan and also restricting the flow to allow for better cooling. I will post some images later if you like. I am still working on the car so it has yet to be installed other than the original fit.
You could get yours recored. That is the least expensive route. Find a shop that wants to do it for a fair price , likely around $300 .
I best Clarify, I am restricting the water flow not the air. Not a difficult project and at a little over $200 including the fan and modification. Also I could not find a filler neck that had the flange at the bottom so I bought a brass one (also from eBay) and will attach it to the top to accommodate my moto meter.
A "T Guru" told me the first two things you buy for your T is a new gas tank and a new radiator.
Upon reflection there are a great many "issues" that can be traced back to these two items. I have "new" radiators in all 4 T's and my Model A was the one that was overheating. Go figure...
That's "new iron" for you.
Brian. I bought a new radiator in June from Birdhaven T parts in Colfax, Iowa for $650.00. Best money I've ever spent. Everything fit with out alteration and my 26 touring has never ran cooler. If I can assist further let me know. Dave.
glen, I would like to see your set-up. Also, what did you use for the inlet to the radiator? did you just use aluminum pipe or did you find a piece with a hose barb?
will have used nice rad hershey RCB80
Nathan, I had them use a piece of aluminum stock and cut it down to provide the hose barb. You can do the same thing by laying a bead around it. The inlet on this particular radiator came with the correct size. I didn't bother removing the old upper inlet as this is for my speedster but if it had been for my 17 I would have done it to have it look more original. Same way with the filler cap that you see. It also provides an overflow tube. This is a Champion radiator and it is a little more narrow then the original but it was on sale with the fan I figured I could compensate for the difference for the price. I will try and upload some images.
Been so happy with my Berg's, I just ordered another for my latest project. Grey is a good guy with superb product.
looks very well done! has it held up to the rough ride that is a model t? Is your filler neck functional or no? How did you attach your filler neck?
Keep us posted if it works well. I know speedster guys would be very interested. Got to get champion to make that in the model T configuration.
The modified radiator looks great. I would also love to know how it works long term. I appreciate everyones comments. I am going to go with the bergs. I definitely want a new one that i don't have to worry about for a long time. One last question though. I have seen several sites suggest that modern anti-freeze is bad for the t. do you all use modern anti-freeze, original anti-freeze or just plain water? I live in florida, so freezing is not a concern.
Where did you see the suggestion about modern anti freeze being bad?
If you have an aluminum head the anti corrosion features of anti-freeze is essential, but it helps the original cast iron from corroding too - if it's changed regularly. The anti corrosion additives only lasts a few years, you can check if it's still good with a digital volt meter - put one probe down into the coolant, the other towards the radiator, the scale has to be up to one volt or so. If you can measure 0.2 volt or more you need to change fast - there is harmful corrosion going on.
Here is the main link I had read.
Nathan, I had to do some searching to find a way to attach brass to aluminum but did find a product called "Super Alloy 1" that should do the trick. I have not attached the filler neck yet but yes it will be functional.
As for the durability of this setup only time will tell. I know a couple of people who run them in hot rods and they have been happy with them.