Rich's '14 progress. (the Wood)

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Rich's '14 progress. (the Wood)
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Sunday, October 05, 2014 - 03:31 pm:







This is the start of the wood framework for my 1914 Touring. I am using Ash I will post more pictures as the progress continues.

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/480687.html?1411349997

http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/479010.html?1410735592

Rich


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hap Tucker in Sumter SC on Sunday, October 05, 2014 - 04:30 pm:

Rich,

It is looking good! Are you primarily using the Mel Miller plans and fitting the wood to the sheet metal?

Respectfully submitted,

Hap l9l5 cut off


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Sunday, October 05, 2014 - 06:31 pm:

Yes Hap. The plans are very good reference but I am finding some discrepancies between the plans and body parts I have. There were apparently changes as the cars were produced. No surprise there. Don Langs '14 for sale in the Classifieds the other day answers some of the questions. Body building isn't that difficult but there are always plenty of surprises.
Also many good pictures on the forum over the years but sometime hard to find.

Rich


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Sheldon, Grass Valley, CA on Sunday, October 05, 2014 - 07:12 pm:

Looking good! Great photos. I may have to bookmark this one to help as a guide for if I get to my '15, even though it is a runabout.
Thank you Rich!
Neat project.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Wayne Atkinson on Sunday, October 05, 2014 - 09:02 pm:

Rich, I didn't know you are doing a 14. You mentioned that the wood is not to difficult. If it is ok, I will bring my 13 up and you can show me how to do the "not to difficult" wood. ha ha


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Sunday, October 05, 2014 - 09:04 pm:

Great job. I have both a 13 and a 14 to do myself.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Townsend ; ^ ) Gresham, Orygun on Monday, October 06, 2014 - 01:16 am:

Richard-
It is looking good! I used Mel Miller plans when I did the wood in my 1919. Yep, there are some difference between body manufacturers. I don't remember if the plans show the wood for the seat back or not, but here are some nice illustrations on Don Lang's car that he has listed:

https://plus.google.com/photos/101332389790300193108/albums/6065775020758769969? authkey=CLS_3bLE9riZ_QE

Also on the outside tack strips, I "steam" bent mine. However, Cubels has a synthetic strip available that you heat with a hot gun and bend into place. I haven't used them, but maybe someone could jump in if they have experience with them.

: ^ )

Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Husted on Monday, October 06, 2014 - 06:02 am:

I have a finished touring in the wood stage by
R W and a 14 roadster. If you need to see how it is done come by the shop. Mike


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Monday, October 06, 2014 - 01:32 pm:

I used the synthetic strips that Cubels sells on my 21 Touring rebuild. I have to say they worked really well. I'm not a 100% purist and besides the tack strips get covered over anyway. But to each his own I guess. Call me a 95 percenter!

The material works pretty well and the use of a propane hand held bottle torch heats the strip to where you can work the curves in the correct position easily. I didn't have a heat gun. It drills and tacks well with no problem that I could tell.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Monday, October 06, 2014 - 08:51 pm:

Thanks for the kind words and suggestions. I guess the "not difficult" is compared to a Tudor and a Coupe I re-wooded without plans and very few and poor pieces for patterns.

Rich


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Hylen- Central Minnesota on Monday, October 06, 2014 - 09:07 pm:

Just a hint, you might want to add some extra support for the joint on the driver's side at the upright just aft of the curve leading to the firewall. The wood breaks at that spot on nearly every '14 and it results in a tear in the body panel.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver on Tuesday, October 07, 2014 - 10:52 pm:

Eric! that's why I don't use ash or oak, I have about 300 bodies out there using sycamore.charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Wednesday, October 08, 2014 - 11:42 am:

Very nice Richard. Having just finished a roadster, I can appreciate what you're doing...VERY nice.

Charley
you must have lived for 300 lifetimes...one rewooded car in a lifetime is enough for me...perhaps I'll do one more...a brass car...but rewooding a black T doubles the price/effort for the car without increasing the value! HAHA


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Wednesday, October 08, 2014 - 01:30 pm:



Eric, is this the joint you mentioned? Thanks for the heads up. I will make a metal "T" to reinforce it. I suppose mounting a spare tire or 2 on the running board added extra stress there.

Charley, If used Oak on a few bodies with good results but was told Ash was the only way to go. I our local suppliers stocked Sycamore I would surely try it.

Scott, I have surely enjoyed the pictures of your Roadster and your comments. Great car and very nice photos.

Rich


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Wednesday, October 08, 2014 - 01:32 pm:

"I used Oak on a few bodies with good results but was told Ash was the only way to go. I our local suppliers stocked Sycamore If would surely try it".

Late Edit


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Wednesday, October 08, 2014 - 01:33 pm:

Never mind


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver on Wednesday, October 08, 2014 - 02:01 pm:

when I was younger I could make a 14 touring body in 120 hrs new wood & tin & assembled. I made bodies for a lot of you, 30 yrs full time . as far that part the way the tin in cases the wood you will have to hit it with a 4 lb hammer to brake it even in ash. unless you use a upholstery nail and don't drill a pilot hole. charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Spaziano, Bellflower, CA. on Wednesday, October 08, 2014 - 02:49 pm:

A good friend of mine whom I've known for many years, has been around vintage autos all his life.

His father was one of the founders of the C.C.C.A. and his grandfather founded the largest independent automobile body manufacturing company in Michigan. They built bodies for many, many car companies including Ford.

Although the type of wood they used for body manufacturing was not 100% exclusive, the wood species of choice for them was ash.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver on Wednesday, October 08, 2014 - 02:58 pm:

ford by the middle 20s was using a lot of yellow pine.charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Paul Booth on Wednesday, October 08, 2014 - 08:26 pm:

Richard,
It looks like you have enough extra wood around to make a few bodies. Great work. It took me an entire winter to get to that point. The lumber yards around me were asking far to much for rough cut ash. So I cut one down, made a kiln and dried and dimensioned my own... I should have just bought the lumber from the yard.

Nice job,
Paul


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Wednesday, October 08, 2014 - 09:13 pm:

Great idea Paul. I remember an article about a fellow who thought leather was too expensive so he bought a cow, tanned and dyed the hide. However the dye didn't dry right and ruined his white shirts. We all do things our own way.

Mike, thanks for the Ash comments.

I did use pine (2 x 4's) on a couple of bodies and it worked ok but doesn't hold the nails or screws as well. Not the same as yellow pine probably.

Rich


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Eric Hylen- Central Minnesota on Wednesday, October 08, 2014 - 09:47 pm:

Rich,
Yes, that's the one. Most unrestored '14s that I've seen have a tear in the sheet metal right above that joint, indicating a structural problem with the wood.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jack Daron - Brownsburg IN on Wednesday, October 08, 2014 - 10:03 pm:

I like Sycamore also. No acid in the wood,light and strong.Just difficult to find anymore.I use a lot of Popular and Ash.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver on Wednesday, October 08, 2014 - 10:35 pm:

oh! one more thing about sycamore it must be 1\4 sawed or it will warp when dried.it is hard to find but worth it. most go's for pallets. charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rick J. Gunter on Thursday, October 09, 2014 - 10:59 am:

Richard,
How do you get the wood so smooth (and perfect looking)? Do you sand it before assembly (or after) and what do you sand it with? (...by hand, belt sander, orbital sander, or what?)

Eric or Charley,
For the "extra support for the joint on the driver's side at the upright just aft of the curve leading to the firewall," what would you recommend? Do you mean an extra piece of wood to brace it, or a piece of steel angle iron, or what?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Thursday, October 09, 2014 - 12:26 pm:

Rick, if my pictures were clearer you would see some band saw marks on the curves. I run the flat sides through my planer and hand sand some surfaces with 60 grit and/or scrape with a 3" x 5" steel scraper plate.

Jack mentioned Popular and I liked it on the sides and trunk of a Buick I did a few years ago. It finished and painted well.

Rich


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By charley shaver on Thursday, October 09, 2014 - 02:07 pm:

rick. as I said before I don't see why you would need anything on a 14 in 30 yrs I have never seen a 14 that was broken there.13s yes the tin is not the same. I guess if I were going to make it stronger I would cut a piece of 1\8'' steel and screw it to the bottom. charley


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Tuesday, October 21, 2014 - 08:46 pm:

Progress report. I got a couple more days in.




Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Wednesday, October 22, 2014 - 01:12 am:

Rich - .....almost seems a shame to cover up that beautiful woodwork with all that ugly ol' metal!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Wednesday, October 22, 2014 - 10:04 am:

Harold, you hit the nail on the head. The metal is ugly. I took these photos to remember how nice the wood looks before I cover it up and paint it.

I mentioned I am building this out of panels too far gone for me to restore. However I want to do this as close to original as possible. I have always been envious of those with truly original cars that have aged well.

This picture was taken after some basic straightening.


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