Can not get the rear pass side wheel off. Brakes are released
Some guys will say to loosen the nut a little and drive it around the block.
Are you using the puller that threads onto the hubcap threads?
Remove the cotter pin, then remove the wheel retaining nut, turn it around and rethread it onto the axle until the nut is flush with the end of the axle threads. This will protect the axle threads while you use the puller.
Thread the puller all the way onto the hubcap threads, then tighten the clamping bolt. Tighten the center bolt of the puller as tight as you dare.
Jack the opposite rear wheel off the ground and hammer on the center bolt of the puller with a hand sledge (a claw hammer isn't big enough). After a few hammer whacks, see if you can tighten the center bolt of the puller some more. Repeat as necessary.
At some point, the wheel will pop loose. On mine, there was no popping sound, but all of a sudden I found that the center bolt of the puller could be turned with my fingers. At that point, I was able to slide the wheel off the axle.
Some folks have had good luck with removing the cotter pin and loosening the locking nut a few turns, then driving the car a short distance. It's worth a try - it didn't work on my car, I had to use the puller as described above.
I back off the axle nut and put the cotter pin back in and drive it until it loosens. Iv seen times that was the only way to loosen it. Once I drove the car over 20 miles before it came loose
Hmmm. Might just leave it on until I finally drive it out of this garage. I was just going to paint the things anyway. Off to the next project. Thanks fellas.
While you have the hubcaps off, you might as well check the torque on the retaining nuts. Remove the cotter pin, loosen the nut, then tighten it to at least 75 foot pounds, plus whatever additional tightening it takes to be able to get the new cotter pin in. Do not back off the nut to get the cotter pin slots to line up!
If the nut goes on so far that the cotter pin sits above the nut castellations, put a washer under the nut so that the cotter pin sits down inside the nut castellations.
I used a bearing puller like this one.
It was all I had and it did not take to much effort a half a turn and the wheel popped right off. I do not recommend using to much force with this puller, you don't want to bend anything
I use a "rear wheel knock off". Lang's number: 2800KO.
It hasn't failed me yet but sometimes I need a bigger hammer
The knock off puller didn''t work for me. The proper one that screws on the hubcap threads is a bit of money but, well worth having.
(Message edited by 404 not found on October 06, 2014)
Yup,I had a old org Ford but it was worn out before i got it.A new repo works very well!!Bud.
I loosen the nut and put on the puller and tighten the clamp around the threads then tighten the center bolt and whack with the hammer. If that dosn't do it, I leave the puller on and drive the car. Note leave the nut on loose if you do it this way, so the wheel won't come off while you are driving it. Usually a U turn around the circular driveway is enough to loosen it. My last choice is the short end of a driveshaft which is about 10 inches long. The thread where the nut holds the pinion gear is same thread as an axle. I leave the nut on the axle about half on and half off and put the driveshaft end into the other end of the nut and tighten it against the end of the axle. Then jack the opposite side and use the sledge on the driveshaft stub.
Make sure you release the parking brake or the rear wheel will be hard to remove. Don't ask me how I know about that.
The best way I have found, is to use a panel cutter tool or rivet gun with a 30 degree point ground on the end of an old panel cutter, rivet, chisel. ect. A couple of shots on the
axel center and it should fall right off.
Invest in one of these from one of the Vendors. You won't regret it. I have an original that I have been using for 50 years. It works for me every time. Best regards, John
(Message edited by 404 not found on October 07, 2014)
Yes, the tool pictured above is the answer. Perhaps what some people need to do is put out a call here on the forum for someone local who has one that could stop at their house at a convenient time. I have this tool. It takes one easy minute to use per wheel and is not needed to put the wheel back on. I would be glad to meet a fellow owner and see their car. If close enough, I might even have an excuse to drive there with my T.
You sometimes find pullers like John posted at swap meets, but be careful. They're not all the right size for a Model T wheel. I have one that's too big for even a TT. No idea what it fits.
To add to Steve's post looking for a "used" puller - best check the condition of the first 3/8" - 1/2" of threads - some are pretty weak !
The puller that John shows is the first real Model t tool that I bought and It is the best one in my tool box.
- Whooo It is the only model t tool in my tool box
I recently bought the best puller I've ever used. Pretty "spendy" at $99.00 bucks, but worth it! Not Sears "Craftsman" brand as you'd expect, but made by a company called Posi Lock. Google Posi Lock Pullers and you'll see a whole line of different sizes,.....I bought the one with a 4" reach and 1/2" to 5" spread. A really quality that really works as well as the company claims.
....meant to say, a really quality tool that really works as well as the company claims.