Which order to solve 3 problems, low speed band, brake rod adjustment and neutral adjustment

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: Which order to solve 3 problems, low speed band, brake rod adjustment and neutral adjustment
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Kriegel Mishawaka Indiana on Sunday, October 12, 2014 - 07:49 pm:

Suggestions on the proper procedure for setting in proper order, low gear band, neutral and parking brake rods

Well solving problems on these cars is a lot of fun. The engine is running fine, the lights all work so now to adjust the transmission bands and parking brake. I took the car out for a short 2 mile low speed spin. The left rear brake was dragging hard (I had changed it and the wheel a year ago and it was hard to force the large drum over the brake) see prior post

I jacked the rear up on stands and here is what I see.

The right rear wheel spins rapidly when the parking brake handle is in the vertical (neutral)

I found the parking brake lever would NOT go fully forward. The problem (see pictures) is two metal hangers attached to the frame holding the parking brake rods too tight in a crimped channel about 8 inches away from the rear brake . Once these were unbolted, the parking lever now moves full range of motion

With the brake rods detached, the right rear wheel will runs rapidly. The left barely moves an inch then stops then tries to move etc. I backed off the low speed adjustment thinking the low speed band was too tight with no result in a decrease in speed of the right sinning wheel

The right rear wheel will stop using the normal transmission brake pedal but starts right up when the brake pedal is released. This is with the low speed adjuster loosened 3 turns

I am thinking of attaching and adjusting the brake rod to the spinning right rear wheel and adjusting it properly, and just safety wire the left rear brake rod up unattached . Then take the car out and see if the tight brake drum loosens up after driving (suggestions I have read)

If it loosens up, then adjust that brake rod then adjust low speed band, then check neutral.

Any suggestions to this plan? Also keep the brake rod hanger supports off the car or clean them up so they do not jam the movement of the rod






Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, October 12, 2014 - 07:57 pm:

Did you put the left brake shoe on the wrong way? Did a spring fall off or forgotten? Take the hub off and inspect the drum and try and find where it's rubbing. Unless you look you are playing a guessing game.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Sunday, October 12, 2014 - 08:14 pm:

For low speed band adjustment, turn the adjustment on the right side of the outside of the transmission. It should be adjusted so that when you push the pedal all the way down it begins to apply the low band about 1 1/2 inch above the floorboard and when it is down tight it should not quite touch the floorboard. If you adjust too tight, the band will drag on the drum causing quick wear of the bands, loss of power, and possibly a cracked low drum. If it is too loose, the pedal will hit the floorboard before it clamps the drum, causing slippage whenever you are in low gear. This is especially bad when going uphill. Could also lead to quick wear and or cracked drum.

Here is how I adjust things. For the neutral, see the diagram on how to adjust for a free neutral. The bolt should be adjusted to the same neutral point that you achieve when using the pedal. The lever moves about 7/16 inch.

For adjusting the parking brake: Put the brake lever all the way forward. With both rear wheels jacked up both wheels should spin freely. Note, because with the lever forward, the transmission is in high hear, one wheel will turn forward and the other will turn backward, but both should be free. Next, take out the clevis pins from both rods. adjust so that when the rod is pushed all the way backward as far as it will go, you can slip the clevis pin in easily without forcing the rod. When you have both rods adjusted in that manor, pull the brake lever back until the wheels lock. You will need to either have two people to do this or pull the lever back one notch at a time until you can notice that the wheels are starting to get tight. If both wheels don't get tight at the same point on the brake lever, tighten up the rod on the looser side by 1/2 turn and check again. Keep tightening the rod on the looser side until both wheels stop at the same notch on the brake lever.

After you do the above adjustments, put the lever into the neutral position and see if the transmission is in neutral and the wheels are free to spin. If so, you are good to go.
Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Craig Anderson, central Wisconsin on Sunday, October 12, 2014 - 10:17 pm:

That PLAY thing has driven me nuts since the first time I saw that.
Why in creation didn't they state "half a hole short"?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Sunday, October 12, 2014 - 11:10 pm:

David, the wheel is spinning because of the drag in the clutch. Here is what I would do. Adjust low band just tight enough so that the pedal stops about 1 inch above the floor boards when you firmly press it down. Next release the brake lever completely. Break the low speed connector lock nut loose and draw out the cotter and clevis pins. Pull the low pedal back all the way and unscrew the clevis until you can't put the pin in. Now screw it back on until the pin will go in and you have some play in the pedal. The pedal should have a small amount of back and forth play without the clutch shaft moving with the brake lever completely forward. Tighten the lock nut and check again then put in a new cotter pin. Now push the clutch pedal down into the neutral position and, while holding the pedal in neutral, pull the lever back into neutral. Release the pedal while watching the lever bolt. The bolt should stay where it is and not drop. If it drops run the bolt in further and tighten the jamb nut. If you take out one of the brake rod clevis pins is the wheel still hard to turn? If so, you will have to remove the wheel to find your problem.

Stephen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, October 12, 2014 - 11:43 pm:

If the wheels are off the ground and because of fluid tension between the clutch disk it's somewhat normal for the wheel to spin. If you can stop the spinning of the wheel by light application of the parking brake and not bog down the engine the clutch should be ok.
If you take the trans cover off and have the parking brake pulled back with the clutch in neutral and all three fingers are loose, you are in neutral.


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