HELP! Broke my radiator petcock with thread still in, what do I do now?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: HELP! Broke my radiator petcock with thread still in, what do I do now?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew Atchinson on Tuesday, October 14, 2014 - 08:09 pm:

The title says it all. I was trying to take the brass petcock off of the bottom of the radiator. I know it's threaded and should come right out. It didn't for some reason. It was leaking before so it needed to come out. I managed to tighten it up a bit so decided to test it. While tapping the little twist piece back in carefully *NOT pounding mind you) with a hammer the petcock broke off. There's still a good 1/2 and inch of thread still stuck in the radiator. How do I get it out so I can put a new petcock in?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, October 14, 2014 - 08:20 pm:

Use a straight Easy-out, not the spiral kind. You should find it at the hardware store. It often comes in a set of several sizes.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Tuesday, October 14, 2014 - 08:22 pm:

This might be one place an easy out might work, just don't twist it off. You might also grind a hacksaw blade so it's just wide enough to fit and cut grooves 180 degrees apart (and not all the way thru) and then use a screw driver or a piece of sheet metal and unscrew it. If it doesn't come out easily you might ought to remove the radiator so you can better see what you are doing.

Patience and persistence is what you need here.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Seth - Ohio on Tuesday, October 14, 2014 - 08:24 pm:

You can try an "easy out" or screw extractor. If you have a very small blade you can insert it up into the small opening and cut a section of the broken piece out and collapse the remaining section in and pull it out. You may just try a small screw driver inserted inside it and twist to see if it will back out.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dennis Seth - Ohio on Tuesday, October 14, 2014 - 08:25 pm:

Wow you guys type fast!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By john kuehn on Tuesday, October 14, 2014 - 08:29 pm:

Buy a Eze-out set to use in your shop.
Go to Sears or maybe Harbour freight tools and they should have one.

The straight Eze-out works the best for me. They do come in handy from time to time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew Atchinson on Tuesday, October 14, 2014 - 08:45 pm:

Thanks for the quick responses guys. Looks like I'm taking a trip to the hardware store tomorrow.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Graham Lloyd on Tuesday, October 14, 2014 - 08:52 pm:

Buy a good set of EzeOuts. Don't get the cheap ones. They break easily. And then you have a real problem.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tyrone Thomas - Topeka KS on Tuesday, October 14, 2014 - 08:56 pm:

what he said


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By keith g barrier on Tuesday, October 14, 2014 - 09:20 pm:

If you heat it up with a torch(even propane) let it cool or quinch it, it will screw right out no problem. KGB


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Menzies on Thursday, October 16, 2014 - 02:54 am:

My luck has been on the minus side with eazy-outs. I would recommend drilling it out and re-tapping. The thread is 1/8 pipe and the final drill is letter "R" = .3390. If you have a letter drill set start with N = .3020, O = .3160, P = .3230, Q = .3320, then finish with R = 3390. Thread only deep enough to allow the drain valve to go in 3 or 4 turns. Apply Teflon tape and thread the new valve in, as Ted says patience and persistence. Good luck.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jerry VanOoteghem on Thursday, October 16, 2014 - 10:42 am:

Matthew,

Try the easy-outs that Steve suggests. However, before you insert the easy-out, take a small, square file and carefully "square-up" the hole. Then, drive the easy-out tightly into the squared hole and try unscrewing the broken piece. This will do wonders to help the easy-out engage with the broken piece.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Darel J. Leipold on Thursday, October 16, 2014 - 06:18 pm:

To heat something like this, I use a soldering iron that just fits inside the opening of the twisted off part. This will heat up the part.
Often the part will now come loose with out cooling it with water.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Thursday, October 16, 2014 - 06:50 pm:

Jerry, I have never done what you suggest, but that is an excellent idea! Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jeff Hood on Thursday, October 16, 2014 - 06:51 pm:

There are special splined non-tapered easy outs for removing broken pipe stubs such as yours. A plumbing supply should have them. McMaster-Carr has them under "Any Direction Heavy Duty Extractor"


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary Tillstrom on Thursday, October 16, 2014 - 07:49 pm:

The cheapest, fastest and easiest way is as suggested by Keith Barrier. Once you heat the broken portion and allow it to cool the broken petcock will shrink and pull away from the threads that are holding it. In all likelihood, you may turn it out with fingers only.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By brass car guy on Thursday, October 16, 2014 - 10:29 pm:

Don't put too much pressure on the easyouts as you just may twist the threads out of the radiator and do damage to the radiator tank.

brasscarguy


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Matthew Atchinson on Thursday, October 16, 2014 - 11:11 pm:

Update: Got a tap for 3 dollars. Fit right in, took a ratchet and got the broken thread to come right out. Thanks for the help guys.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By George John Drobnock on Friday, October 17, 2014 - 09:13 am:

I would find a hard wood branch get out my Barlow and whittle a suitable plug. Wedge it in and fill with water. And drive. Found an example similar in a barn - once.


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