The title says it all. I was trying to take the brass petcock off of the bottom of the radiator. I know it's threaded and should come right out. It didn't for some reason. It was leaking before so it needed to come out. I managed to tighten it up a bit so decided to test it. While tapping the little twist piece back in carefully *NOT pounding mind you) with a hammer the petcock broke off. There's still a good 1/2 and inch of thread still stuck in the radiator. How do I get it out so I can put a new petcock in?
Use a straight Easy-out, not the spiral kind. You should find it at the hardware store. It often comes in a set of several sizes.
This might be one place an easy out might work, just don't twist it off. You might also grind a hacksaw blade so it's just wide enough to fit and cut grooves 180 degrees apart (and not all the way thru) and then use a screw driver or a piece of sheet metal and unscrew it. If it doesn't come out easily you might ought to remove the radiator so you can better see what you are doing.
Patience and persistence is what you need here.
You can try an "easy out" or screw extractor. If you have a very small blade you can insert it up into the small opening and cut a section of the broken piece out and collapse the remaining section in and pull it out. You may just try a small screw driver inserted inside it and twist to see if it will back out.
Wow you guys type fast!
Buy a Eze-out set to use in your shop.
Go to Sears or maybe Harbour freight tools and they should have one.
The straight Eze-out works the best for me. They do come in handy from time to time.
Thanks for the quick responses guys. Looks like I'm taking a trip to the hardware store tomorrow.
Buy a good set of EzeOuts. Don't get the cheap ones. They break easily. And then you have a real problem.
what he said
If you heat it up with a torch(even propane) let it cool or quinch it, it will screw right out no problem. KGB
My luck has been on the minus side with eazy-outs. I would recommend drilling it out and re-tapping. The thread is 1/8 pipe and the final drill is letter "R" = .3390. If you have a letter drill set start with N = .3020, O = .3160, P = .3230, Q = .3320, then finish with R = 3390. Thread only deep enough to allow the drain valve to go in 3 or 4 turns. Apply Teflon tape and thread the new valve in, as Ted says patience and persistence. Good luck.
Try the easy-outs that Steve suggests. However, before you insert the easy-out, take a small, square file and carefully "square-up" the hole. Then, drive the easy-out tightly into the squared hole and try unscrewing the broken piece. This will do wonders to help the easy-out engage with the broken piece.
To heat something like this, I use a soldering iron that just fits inside the opening of the twisted off part. This will heat up the part.
Often the part will now come loose with out cooling it with water.
Jerry, I have never done what you suggest, but that is an excellent idea! Dave
There are special splined non-tapered easy outs for removing broken pipe stubs such as yours. A plumbing supply should have them. McMaster-Carr has them under "Any Direction Heavy Duty Extractor"
The cheapest, fastest and easiest way is as suggested by Keith Barrier. Once you heat the broken portion and allow it to cool the broken petcock will shrink and pull away from the threads that are holding it. In all likelihood, you may turn it out with fingers only.
Don't put too much pressure on the easyouts as you just may twist the threads out of the radiator and do damage to the radiator tank.
Update: Got a tap for 3 dollars. Fit right in, took a ratchet and got the broken thread to come right out. Thanks for the help guys.
I would find a hard wood branch get out my Barlow and whittle a suitable plug. Wedge it in and fill with water. And drive. Found an example similar in a barn - once.