One coil just would not stop, no matter what the position of the crank. Obviously, something was grounded.
It turned out to be a terminal screw touching the timer rod.
So I installed a little compression spring to push the rod back. I think I'll also add a little washer or two with the terminal so the screw won't go in as far as it does.
I think I'd put a wrap or two of electrical tape around that point too. Although I don't think mine is that close to it touching. Is your rod bent?
I had the same issue with my 1924 touring/pickup, I ended up making a custom rod that looped higher over the timer, then bent sharply down near the end to engage the timer arm, like this:
I may go with a modified rod, but the spring will do until I get a round tuit.
This is a common problem. The original timer rods were designed to be bent in only one place to set the timing. You need only bend the rod in the arc directly above the timer. You simply squeeze the arc together to advance the timing or spread it open a bit to retard the timing. The height of the arc should not be affected hardly at all. Unfortunately most people pass the rod under the lower radiator hose and clamp because they didn't shorten the radiator lower hose when they installed it. Thus when they then install the rod they bend it to clear the hose and clamp and already they are then off in the wrong direction and they compensate by bending the rod in several places until it is miles off. First step I do is tell the owner of the car to get a brand new rod. Next install it temporarily and see that the rod passes only under the steel tube that connects the radiator lower hose to the engine block water inlet. If it instead passes under the lower radiator hose and clamp they should trim as much as 3/4" off the end of the lower hose and thus move the clamp closer to the radiator. Now the rod passes under only the steel water passage tube. Now the rod should clear everything fine and you can then set the timing by bending the rod only in the arc the timer rod makes as it travels above the timer.
In this case the rod does go under the pipe, but there's at least an inch of clearance there. I think if I remove some of the arch there and add some over the timer the rod will clear that screw. But I may still add a washer or two so the screw doesn't stick out so far behind the terminal.
Yes that might work. On a new rod made per factory drawing there is a rather large arc high above the timer and the clearance at the water pipe is small such that if the hose and clamp are above it - it will hit the clamp when you move the lever. The original rod only has bends in 2 planes but most T timer rods are like a snake after a hundred years of being bent every which way. New rods are rather cheap and made pretty accurately compared to the Ford drawing.
Make sure you have a proper fix for this as it can lead to other trouble.
Ron the Coilman