The helpful tip thread was getting a little long so didn't think it would hurt to start another one. One thing Iv noticed that comes up from time to time is removing the brake hub from the axle, Here's my tip on that.
If the hub gets really stuck on the axle I back off the axle nut just enough to leave a space between the hub and nut (about an 1/8th inch) and then replace the cotter pin and drive the car. You do need to keep stopping and checking to see if it loosened so that it does not damage the key way. It if comes loose just tighten the nut so that it is firm but not too tight. Just enough to get you home. 98% of the time this trick will work. I once had to drive my car almost 20 miles before it broke free.
Now, To solve the problem from ever happening again this is what I do. Just before reassembly I put a light coat of grease on the axle and the hub, Then I tighten the nut to spec's. Doing this small step has saved me a ton of problems and I've never had a problem with it.
Always make it easy for some one to find the original thread by including a link
To add to the tip about taping a nut to your finger, Often enough I have used tape (usually black electrical tape) to tape a nut (and sometimes a bolt) into a open end or box end wrench. Makes getting the crankcase arms bolted up not a half bad job by yourself.
I've also used the cheap little round "rare earth" magnets to hold nuts into sockets.
"I've also used the cheap little round "rare earth" magnets to hold nuts into sockets"
I use those cheap little magnets for many things, but never thought about this one — thanks Les!
Here's another use for the little button magnets: scattered on an oil pan, well away from any rotating items, to catch any stray ferrous bits before they could cause any mischief. This car (1947 Dodge) has a bypass oil filter so it could be a few times through the engine before some metal bits got filtered out.
If you have an old computer hard drive you're getting rid of anyway, take it apart and pull out the rare earth magnets that drive the pickup arm. They are surprisingly powerful.
When installing newly made spark plug wires, yellow or black with red tracer;
Give a gentle tug on the brass ends. The crimp will not always hold. Open the crimp to re-install but leave 1/8 in. of the copper wire showing and do a good solder bead to the wire and brass end.
I prefer anti-sieze to grease on the axle--just a little dab 'll do ya! (no, don't use Brylcream!!)
When rebuilding a t engine, make sure you remove all the old gasket from the hogshead. If not you will have oil leaks and waste a day redoing the cover. ASK ME WHAT I SPENT TODAY DOING.
Jim Sims... What did you spend today doing? Well, you did say to ask you...
Can u still buy Brylcream?
Rare Earth Magnets may be unfamiliar to some. They are nothing like any magnets that you may have played with before.
Just don't let one stick on your car hood. You will have to pry it off. They are cheap and fun to demonstrate with.
Google the 3 words - rare earth magnets to get dealers and articles. Also type the same words into eBay.
Brlycream a little dab will do ya, Brillcream blank black blank, Now for you older guys fill in the blanks.
Yes, you can still get it. And it's what I use.
"You'll look so debonair."
"All the gals will pursue ya,
simply rub a little in your hair."
When repairing wheel wobble, replace all bushings and kingpins at the same time. One new piece may buy you some time, but ultimately you will find yourself pulling all back apart to do the full job. At least this was my recent experience.
Beware of the "dab"---I`m just back from Seattle and a "dab" there is highly concentrated cannibus-all legal, there. (not good for your hair)---Paul
I'm impressed, there are guys as old as me around here. They actually knew the answer to a trivia question.
Way to go "older rules"
The shutoff on these is a taper fit in the housing. Usually there is a cotter pin, washer and a spring on the stem of it (or some other fastening system). if you remove all this, then you can consider a couple of options. I see you own a '25, so I assume you are working on the version that mounts under the seat, but I don't think it really matters.
1. HEAT. Brass expands much more quickly than cast iron. If you apply some quick HOT heat to the stem of the brass valve plug (only for a few minutes but hopefully get it red) AND THEN WALK AWAY!! Brass is very brittle and weak when hot, so don't try anything until it cools. As it cools, my favorite penetrating lube for this is ordinary candle wax. Apply the wax somewhat liberally at the temperature of the object where it is still smoking a bit, but only just. Now leave it a bit longer until you handle it. With a bit of luck it will now move and you can remove the valve stem and finish cleaning things
2. Another option is to make a custom punch that fits closely the end of the stem and applies force to as large a area as possible. A sharp tap with a hammer might work.
3. A combination of above.
Heat is really useful for disassembling things without breaking stuff and candle wax has really worked well for me during this process. It "wicks" in beautifully to threads if applied when the object is still hot and just barely at the "smoking temp"!!
Once you have it all apart and cleaned up, to get the valve to now work and seal against gasoline, I like SOAP! The scum from the bottom of the soap dish works well, is gasoline proof and lubricates well. I am not sure if ethanol might not affect it, but I try to avoid ethanol gas in my old cars
Bryl Cream. I never used it AND I still have all my hair! I wonder if there is a connection!!