I'm still mystified by these rods that don't quite reach the clevises. Anybody have one handy you can measure? I've cobbled up some temporary longer "clevises", but I think I may need to add another inch to the rods.
I just went out and did my weekly exercise routine (the '15 is tucked in a corner, the hack is parked beside it with a 12" space between and I'm a fat guy! Ha-ha)
A little tough to measure as there are like 3 or 4 twists in the rod...but I tried two different ways and came up with 54-1/4 both times. This is from the furthermost point of the split end to one and a half diameters of the rod into the clevis (you said you wanted the rod length). If you want it clevis end to forked end, let me know quick and I'll go measure again.
The right way would be to pull the hack out, get better access to the '15 and tape a string along the path of the rod and then measure the string.
I am tied up today on family stuff, but if you need it more precise, let me know and I'll pull the hack out tomorrow, get under the '15 and get you the number anyway you want
All rods'09-'25 are same length. 54 1/8" overall from the tip of the yoke to the end of the threads on the cross shaft end.
The different yokes, your 1915 should have the forged yoke (lower), later rods are simple swaged and split yoke.
Yep, that's it. I don't remember what I used for a pattern, but I made the rods too short. I'll have to add about an inch.
Or two? You can always cut them off again.
Actually, my dad used to often say "If you cut it too short? You can always scab another piece onto it. However, if you cut it too long? There is nothing you can do to fix it."
Now you know where I got my tendency to be facetious and snide.
Thank you Dan T for the definitive answer.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Steve -- You might have used a '26-7 rod for the pattern. They are shorter than the earlier ones.