what do i put in the little oil caps with the lids on them ?
I use a 90 gear oil, but 30 will work.
90W, 600W or motor oil.
Chain saw oil.
I put in motor oil(20W-50)each day or two I drive.
The guy I bought mine from said he put 10 weight in it. I haven't changed it yet, but I too would like to know what you guys use.
Ruben, if you mean in the engine, that's a recurring discussion that always gets a lot of differing opinions. I say buy the cheapest 10W-30 or 10W-40 you can find. It's better than what these cars got originally. No need to pay the big guys for their expensive advertising.
If a person goes to the trouble to build and love their T, would it not make sense to use a good oil and other maintenance
practices to keep the vehicle in the best possible repair and reduce wear to an absolute minimum ?
I mean, I get the mystique that they originally used mud bog slop for lubricant, but just getting by on "better than original"
still leaves a lot of room to do better. Maybe I am alone in not liking to do the same repair twice - especially if it is expensive
or a PITA - so why not make the effort ?
Oh yes I meant the engine, I didn't notice the question was for the oil caps.
If paying Pennzoil or Mobil for their costly advertising really bought any better quality, maybe it would be worth the extra expense. Does it? Will my car wear less with Quaker State than it will with the Wal-Mart house brand? My dad,who was a stillman in refineries from the twenties to the sixties, used to say it all came out of the same pipe. That wasn't literally true, of course, but his point was that the formula for any given petroleum product was pretty much the same from company to company.
The other issue is how bad does it leak. If you've got a prolific leaker, Steve is certainly correct. If not, it's largely up to you and your wallet. Then again lots depends on whether or not you have a transmission screen and the amount of miles you drive during the season. Those things may impact your decision.
Any oil with an API Service Rating symbol on it is as good as any. This is the little round mark with the viscosity rating in the middle and letter combinations around the edge. C-categories (CI-4, CJ-4) are for compression fired (diesel) engines and have a higher zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) content which is better for vintage engines with more sliding surfaces as compared to more modern roller engines. S-categories (SL, SM, etc.) are for any spark fired engines. Regardless, Steve is correct in that it all comes from the same pipe so to say. If it has that seal, it fits the standards required by the American Petroleum Institute. Name brands have fancier packaging and some special additives that may or may not be of benefit, like "Pennzoil with Z-7". It is not worth paying for it. So, buy any oil with the API seal and for the benefit of your engine, go with the oils rated for Diesel engines.
Justin...yep...I use Rotella 10W30 in mine, best oil on the market. Hands down. You'll never get sludge in your engine from it, like say, Qwacker State for sure! That's like putting melted candle wax in your engine.
When I choose oil for my T I look at the best oil that money can buy - after all it is my precious baby.
I look at Mobile 1, Royal Purple, and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum and then realize that I am cheep so I get the house brand.
I run a cheap 20W40 oil from a discount chain that I change very frequently. Nine years since my motor rebuild and it still runs well. With no oil filter, frequent oil changes are the only way of keeping the oil clean. I would hate dumping an expensive oil after only a few hundred miles.