Hi all I am new to the model t world picking up a 25 touring car in need of saving. Car was in very rough shape missing a lot even though I was told the engine was rebuilt. I put in the missing starter and generator, both manifolds new wiring as there was none. New front and back wheel bearings and seals (Used good used rear bearings) found some used wheels and bought new tires, tubes and liners. Found a used Kingston l4 carb but I need to replace it. I have been following this forum for advice and it has been a life saver. I just got the car running this past Sunday. I have not driven it yet. Tonight I noticed there was wetness next to the #2 cylinder so looks like a head gasket.
What is the best head gasket the copper or the silicone? If copper do I need a sealant? Bob
Has the head been machined? If not, have it milled flat, not just put on a grinder. I have currently have a silicone gasket and have experienced no problems. Copper give good service too. Make sure that the cylinder head bolts are not bottoming out before tightening and use a thread lubricant such as "Neverseez" upon assembly. On a copper gasket I have seen "Hylermol" used to great effect.
Robert do you have the black Model T Ford maintenance manual? Also Google " MTFCA head tightening sequence" It is VERY easy to pull the head, look for the leak source , clean it up, clean out the bolt holes in the head, get a good head gasket and re torque as per factory instructions. This should solve it. Many more more informed posts fro great forum members to follow I am sure This forum is a wealth of info
I've had good luck with copper gaskets, haven't tried the silicone version. I normally put my head gaskets on dry but the copper spray sealant may help, especially if there are any surface irregularities on the top of the block. David is right on for checking the bolt holes to ensure they are clean and then trial fit the head bolts for length by putting the head on with no gasket and making sure the head bolts don't bottom out before contacting the head. If any bottom out, either clean to hole for clearance or shorten all of the head bolts an equal amount so you don't need to remember which bolt and hole need the short bolt.
I torque the bolts dry to 50 ft/lb. Opinions on torque may vary.
Thank you all for replying so fast. David the book is in my shopping cart at Lang's just waiting to put a head gasket in too.
Copper gasket is the way to go and a good copper sealant.
It's good to run a bottoming tap in the holes and blow out the debris.
I agree, copper gasket & copper goo. Be sure the water holes in the gasket match the water holes in the block (bigger holes to the rear). It's easy to get the gasket in backwards.
Here's more about useful books: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html
Be sure to wear safety glasses when you blow the debris out of the cylinder head holes! Also, it's good to have a vacuum cleaner running with the hose next to the hole to suck up whatever debris gets blown out so that it doesn't just go up in the air and settle back down somewhere else on the engine.
VERY good advice about reading and studying the Ford service manual.
Read and reread the manuals. Its amazing what you can learn when you read the instruction manuals.
Been there and done that a few times.
Be sure you tighten the head down evenly starting in the center and working your way out.
Check out the tightening pattern as mentioned. Good luck
Have you tried the easiest thing first? Re-torque the head bolts and see if it stops.
By the way: if you do or already have pulled the head DO NOT fail to follow Steve's advice. You must clean and blow out all the head bolt holes.
I just did the head on my roadster. Also new to the T. I took all the advice here and have a nice tight head. I could not believe all the crap that came out of the head bolt holes. How does it get in there! PK
One thing I do that has not been mentioned is I always put the head on without a head gasket and see if ALL head bolts go ALL THE WAY DOWN. If the head bolts DON'T GO DOWN then if you have cleaned out the bolt holes good you have to grind some off the end of the bolt. Note if I grind one down I grind all of them down so some day I don't get them mixed up.
SIDE BAR; FORD-N-MORE sells a very good copper head gasket which I believe has a Kevlar center. Give them a call at 509-535-7789.
The first time I pulled a head, 62 years ago, I replaced the gasket and drove the car. Soon the new gasket was blown! That was because I didn't use a torque wrench and I did not torque again after the engine warmed up.
Whenever you replace a head gasket, be sure to use a torque wrench and follow the pattern shown in the book for tightening the bolts. If you don't have the book, start with the center bolt and work from side to side the next closest bolt and alternate from the center till you reach the ends of the head. Start with about 30 ft lbs, then go over again at 35 ft lbs and 40 ft lbs then 45 ft lbs and finally 50 ft lbs. After you warm up the engine, before you drive it, torque again to 50 ft lbs. If you have an aluminum head, torque again when the engine is cold. Do this every time you run the engine until it holds 50 ft lbs.
I would suspect the reason your gasket is leaking is because it was not torqued again after the first time the engine was run after the rebuild.
The above suggestions are good too, if you need to replace the gasket, be sure the head is flat surface and that all the bolts turn all the way down into the head. Best way to find out if they turn all the way down is to first install the head without the gasket and see if the heads of the bolts touch the head. If they do, then remove and install the gasket as I have described above.
Ditto to what DH said.