$1.75 and a day wasted, so far, and time for another exasperation break. I told you I wouldn't try to start this car again until I installed a new crank sleeve, so this morning I started that job. Trying to remove the old bushing out the front with the threaded rod press got me nowhere. I tried pressing it both directions with no luck. So I made a couple of hacksaw cuts and got it out that way. I wish I had my digital camera to show you this. Once the old bushing was out I could see why trying to press it out was futile. It had been tack welded inside the pan. So then came installation of the new bushing. I was able to press it in from the front about halfway, and no more. Stuck solid with about an inch and a half sticking out the front. And I do mean stuck solid. Even some heavy pounding with a twelve pound hammer failed to budge it. And of course I can't pull it back out either. I guess the plan now is to cut this one with the hacksaw too.
The Model T parts dealers sell only the steel sleeve, but I think I want to go with a bronze replacement. Can anybody who has done that recommend a good source?
One big lesson from today's adventure: Do this replacement while you have the pan off the engine and out of the car.
Since a lot of the bushing sticks out on the rear, I prefer to press it in from the rear. Worked nice on my 20's pans. Ok, not having them installed maked it easier.
Steve, you can purchase bronze cored rods from one of a number of suppliers, Enco, McMaster Carr to name a couple. Bearing bronze 660 (C932) is very easy to machine to the correct ID and OD.
Your experience with the steel sleeves provided by the vendors mirrors mine.
Doing a bit of online hunting I find one from ASB Bearings for $3.89 and from McMaster Carr for $30 or $40 depending on the material. Hmmm.
I know shipping will be a killer, so Monday I'll do some local shopping.
Steve, here in Oz I can buy a ready made bush from the local bearing supplier. It is a little to long but that is easily corrected.
Most pans have a history with that crank bush hole. I find that the new bush often needs to be turned down a little to get it to fit. I always fit them from the rear so I do not have to push it clear through the pan snout and out the back. that way I can leave the back of the bush un-machined so it cannot migrate forward.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Steve....I used the steel bushing and......no problem....works great.....
Its easy to make suggestions after the fact, so please do not allow my thoughts to add to your much understood frustration.
When you decide to revisit this task again, You might try using a brake cylinder hone to clean up he bore in the nose before attempting to press a new bushing in place. By doing this you should be able to dial in a fit that works a lot better.
John's suggestion to use a brake hone is a good one.
In fact I think you can solve this without buying anything.. Just cut the part of the bushing that sticks out in front with a hack saw and press in the cut off part from the rear ;)
If you want to make sure you can get the rear part in all the way, use the brake hone first. If you grind too much, use loctite
I am not trying to bust your chops but FWIW I agree with what John said. Always take visual stock AND MEASURE before trying to press reproduction parts into place. I quit the bent steel bushings for things like spring, perch, and crank bushings a long time ago and turn bronze, brass, steel or nylatron bushings after careful cleanup and measurement. The bore of the pan that accepts the crank bushing after nearly 100 years of exposure to the elements is usually kind of rough. It seems to me that the earlier the car the more important this is. If I remember correctly when I replaced the kingpins and bushings on my 14 I found that the OD of the reproduction bushings was about .008 to .010 bigger than the bore of my spindles. That would have been way to tight of a press fit.
Couldn't one ream or drill the old bushing I.D. until it is straight, and then glue a bushing inside it?
Upon reading this I'm kind of agreeing with the fellow that posted above me. Too late for Steve of course but still...
Throw the mallet away.
Ed, that's what I used. It broke when the bushing reached its present stuck position. A couple of hard whacks with a heavy hammer were to see if the bushing would move. It won't. It also won't press back out, so it's going to get the hacksaw adjustment.
If the new steel bushing comes in a little oversize, maybe try giving the new one the hacksaw adjustment (to widen the slit) before installation? That way it will have more room to compress when you pull it in.
I expect that would work, but I think I've bought my last steel one.
If you want to press it in from the front, you can take a light cut on the exposed part of the bushing, so you won't have to fight it as much. If you look at an early parts book, it looks like they may have even done that. Never pound that bushing in with a hammer! If you do, make sure it is clamped in the frame, so you don't mess up the front of the crankcase.