When I start a 1925 Coupe with a fresh engine and transmission I cannot get the rear left tire to stop spinning while jacked up.
I can STOP it by hitting the breaks with no apparent effect of the engine speed/RPMS. The slow speed connection is backed out as far as I dare take it with maybe 3-4 threads screwed back in.
I've searched the forum but never found a "fix" other than the slow speed connecting rod adjustment.
A jacked up wheel will spin if the brake lever is all the way forward (transmission in high) or half way pulled back (clutch in neutral).
Even though the clutch is in neutral and the plates aren't touching, there is enough friction in the oil between the plates to spin the driveshaft.
Did not know that. Will put it back on the ground and see what we have! (tomorrow... pretty tired today)
Normal action with the clutch disks. There is enough fluid tension between the disk to spin the wheel with it off the ground.
What Erik said! Note to myself; Read all the reply's before responding! LOL
Put a wheel chock in place, just in case.
Often the neutral adjustment can't be achieved due o wear in all the parts. Then you have to do this:
Just like a modern car w/an automatic transmission. In drive or reverse it wants to creep. Fluid between the clutch plates. Need to put it in neutral or park ifn you don't want it to creep.
I like it. I'm going to set the car back on the floor, clear out everything in front of it (29 Model A and 2012 GMC 1 ton) and crank her up!
Unfortunately this thing has no brake rods so that is another issue I need to address. Hopefully it at least has rear brake shoes! (probably not)
The car is a salvage story and never intended to be pretty but rather a "safe and reliable runner"
Then you had better put chocks in front of all the wheels, if not the T may just go on a trip by herself!
Not sure that old beast could run over my fat body!
(Hmmmm. There's a good name for it. "The Beast")
The colder it gets, the harder they are to start due to the oil thickening. Right now with temps in the 50's my TT will labor to fire in neutral because it is also being pushed forward due to the oil. In a month the only way to get him started will be to jack up a wheel and start it in high (lever all the way forward). Standing in front of a truck with a wheel spinning in the air in high gear held up by a T jack is enough motivation to haul a big chock in front of the other wheels. That's for sure.
What Ryan says above brings up a question. When starting with a wheel jacked up, is it more effective or safer to do so in neutral or high gear? It's easy to imagine either way for different reasons but I thought I should check with those who have done this a lot. With colder weather coming, this could be an important topic for many.
It seems to me that starting it in high gear worked best for me as there was less "resistance" when cranking. But having said that...I may be cranking it in high because thats what I read to do, and may not have ever tried jacking it up and attempting to hand crank with the truck in Neutral. Once it is running, I hop in and pull the handbrake back all the way a few times and the wheel will stop turning after 2 or three yanks. Then you let it down and off you go.
The other absolute necessity for me (otherwise its an ugly, ugly start in the winter) is to warm up the intake manifold prior to priming the cylinders. I had read about this as well and decided to give it a try. It was night and day difference to getting a start on the first try in cold weather. Back in the day it was covering the manifold with rags dipped in boiling water. Today a nice heat gun like is used to strip paint or bend pvc pipe is a good investment...heck a hair dryer would work. Running my T around the property in the winter is fun, but takes a few extra steps.
John A, Be careful! Be safe! (Well, as safe as you can be playing with silly things like model Ts!)
Many years ago, I had an old friend who could not properly adjust a model T clutch. He was a good old model T guy and drove his cars a lot, a regular on club tours and events. But he just could not get that clutch adjusted right. His car was hard to crank because of the clutch drag, and he would usually have to jump out of the way as the car started forward on its own. He would pull harder on the handle, or jump in as the car rolled past him. I don't recall him ever being hurt or having an accident because of it.
One time, at a gymkhana event, there was a model T game where a line was drawn on the asphalt. The idea was to drive to the far side of the parking lot, make a U-turn, then pull the brake handle JUST to the disengage clutch point, and coast to a stop as close to the line as you could without using either the service or parking brake. (In a model T?!?! Yes.)
A lot of drivers had trouble with it. He made the turn, a little faster than most, then pulled the clutch lever back. The car never slowed down. He sailed past the line, made a left turn, and continued on out toward the next parking lot. (Then he returned and parked his car, laughing all the way)
His son was about my age, and is still a good friend, still also playing with model Ts.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2