Having trouble removing the outside race from a Model T front wheel?
The picture below is a pry bar that should be available at hardware stores and Harbor Freight. The picture lists some other suggestions to help.
Caution though; with this tool, drive the race out only far enough to get it started. If you keep pounding, the angled tip of the pry bar will slip off and go behind the race and can be difficult to remove. Once you have started the race to move out, change to a straight round driving rod to continue.
I did this so long ago that I don’t remember if I had to grind off some of the edge of the screw driver like tip to allow it to fit through the openings. If you do buy a larger pry bar, you will have to grind it down.
Gene in Virginia Beach
weld a bead with an ark welder on the inside of the race ,when it cools off it will fall out.charley
I suggest that driving a pry bar on the race can be a problem. It is easy to drive the pry behind the race and possibly distort the threads or outer hub and make the installing of hub caps impossible. Been there/done that!! I have never used the welding technique but will the next time I need to change the race.
Charlie is right. The welding trick works great. Bearing race will LITERALLY fall out when it cools off.
I have welded out a few of bearing races on T's and a lot more on industrial gearboxes and/or power transmission equipment. I have never had one that DID NOT just about fall out. I had to give a a small love tap to a couple of them to get them to fall out. It works!
Heating them red hot in two or three places and letting them cool works just as well if you have a torch handy. Dave
I used the heat shrinking method to help remove inner races on my '12 front wheels just last week. The races really didn't fall out, but I think the heating did make it POSSIBLE to remove them.
The very limited flange exposure, along with the shape of the flange, made it nearly impossible to drive them out from the opposite side. I did a lot of pounding before resorting to the nuclear option.
I made four weld beads on each race, 12 o'clock, 3, 6 & 9 o'clock. The race wasn't at all close to falling out. But at that point I was able to drive it out from the back side, which I could not do before heat shrinking.
I just noticed that Eugene's original post concerned the outer race, whereas my report dealt with inner races.
My outer races came out quite easily. As a matter of fact, one of the outers was spinning in the hub. Took it out with my fingers. The other outer race came out with gentle tapping from the back side.
Heat shrinking to loosen the outer races would be much more problematical. The hub is very thin wall in the area of the outer race, so the thermal mass of the hub is pretty low. Heat shrinking of a pressed-in part requires that the pressed part become very hot (red) while the surrounding part remains fairly cool. What we're trying to do is make the inner part want to expand while the outer part remains the same size. Since the inner part can't expand, it has no choice but compress in the soft (hot) area. Then once the inner part cools, it is smaller than it used to be. In order to generate this temperature disparity it is necessary for the thermal mass of the outer part to be significantly greater than that of the inner part.
It may be possible to keep the hub nose cool enough by wrapping with a wet rag during heat cycling. Fortunately, I didn't have to try that.