You'll recall that in our last exciting episode the roadster's hand crank bushing was worn out and the crank was flopping up and down. So I acquired a new bushing and set out to remove the old one. After breaking a couple of all-thread pullers, I resorted to the hacksaw method. Here's the removed bushing.
Once I cut the thing with the hacksaw and drove it back into the pan to remove it, I found out why I couldn't pull it out.
I had assumed it was just pressed in. I certainly didn't expect welding.
When I tried to press in the new steel bushing it went part way and stuck solid. Nothing would move it.
When I was in Wichita Thursday I stopped at a bearing store and got some of these. Yesterday I cut them down to the correct length and beveled them to help them start in.
So today's project was cutting out the stuck steel bushing and installing a new bronze one.
Along with a nut and washer, the inside end of the threaded press had a short length of one inch pipe to receive the inside end of the bushing.
After breaking those two presses using 1/2" all-thread, I went with a stouter 5/8" on this one.
Before starting installation, I ran a brake cylinder hone in the hole to smooth it, then added some grease. The bushing squeezed in with no trouble, and I added a three inch bit of pipe to the press to move it all the way in.
The final step was to run a 3/4" reamer through the bushing so the crank would go in.
One thing I've learned from all this is that next time I want to do this job while the pan is off the engine.
Steve, that's not welded. That's just a burr from the previous installation. JMHO. Dave
Steve - Thank you for posting this little "How-to-do-it" lesson. I'm sure it will help many in the future.
Personally, I installed a steel replacement bushing from a vendor into the pan on one of my T's. The old one came out easily after cutting with a hack saw, and the new one went in without much difficulty.
One good thing - if you keep it well lubed, that's the last crank bushing you'll ever have to put in that car!
As I mentioned in my last post on this subject, the pan should be supported in the frame regardless of whether the engine is on it or not. It's easier to install from the back side, but if you want to do it from the front, I'd take a light cut on the exposed portion of the bushing, so it will just slide through the hole. The rest should be easy enough.
Update: Dave was right. A better picture shows that a burr was scraped off the bushing when it was pressed in.
Steve, what size bushings did you end up getting?
3/4" x 1" x 3". I cut them down to the right length (25/8") and beveled the ends to help them start in.
Another question Steve, what did you pay for them?
Just for fun I cut a slot 260 thousands wide and put a 1/4 20 cap screw in the crank handle. Now the spring pulls the handle forward so that it stands up. If you can make your crank stand up all day you can really impress all of the ladies .
Chris, $7.02 each at the BRC store in Wichita. I could have bought them online for a lot less, but the shipping would have made it more. I would have bought five, but they only had four in stock