New generator ( non T to a T) and regulator wiring - can you check to see l am correct ?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: New generator ( non T to a T) and regulator wiring - can you check to see l am correct ?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dare - Just a little South West . on Wednesday, November 05, 2014 - 07:20 pm:

Lucas Generator - Lucas Regulator.
12 volts 25 amps - regulator 12 volts - 22 amps
E = EARTH/GROUND - attach to earth, chassis or any grounded part - either way it goes back to the battery.
D = DISCHARGE/OUTPUT goes to generator -big terminal( marked D )
F = FIELD goes to the small pin on the generator.
now's where it gets tricky...
WL = warning light-l don't have one of those, but my 26 Tudor has an AMPS gauge.
B = BATTERY - in this instance the + terminal

Turning the regulator upside down, both D and WL are joined, so my guess is that as l don't have a warning light that will be fine without one ???

B - the wire that used to attach to the T generator is powered, from my memory via the AMPS gauge.

SO MY ASSUMPTION IS - I need to connect that single T wire to excite the generator to work, when the AMP gauge starts to work that's enough for the generator to start feeding the battery ..

IS THAT RIGHT, or am l heading down the wrong path.

I don't want to attach that single T powered wire to B battery on the regulator until l'm sure this is right first.

Thanks in advance.
David.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Wednesday, November 05, 2014 - 10:41 pm:

Google: "lucas generator and regulator wiring" and you will find diagrams and info that you need.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dare - Just a little South West . on Thursday, November 06, 2014 - 06:42 am:

Thanks Ted, did that, one shows amps in line as l mentioned above, it's the T wire l just need confirmation on, the wire that would go to the cutout on a T generator.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mike Walker, NW AR on Thursday, November 06, 2014 - 10:04 am:

"Lucas -- Prince of Darkness"

David -- Please don't install any Lucas electrical parts on your Model T. They will let all the smoke out of the wires and nothing will work any more. :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dare - Just a little South West . on Thursday, November 06, 2014 - 10:20 am:

Ha ha.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Evan Mason on Thursday, November 06, 2014 - 11:56 am:

It is reported that the only product that Lucas made that didn't suck was a vacuum cleaner.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dare - Just a little South West . on Thursday, November 06, 2014 - 12:38 pm:

That sucks too.....

Sorry to take this back to an answer, but, the wire to the cutout is the feed wire back to battery .. yes .. no..


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank Harris from Long Beach & Big Bear on Thursday, November 06, 2014 - 12:49 pm:

I am now confused. Are you using a modern three way regulator ? If so you should not be using a Model T cutout.

Another thing is that you must excite the field and there are two ways to do it depending on how the generator is wired. Remember that the Model T generator is gear driven and it can't motor as a belt driven one can and you can't see that it is trying to run like a motor so it will simply just burn up the wiring if you don't excite the field.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Thursday, November 06, 2014 - 02:27 pm:

The cutout is in the regulator.

And YES, the wire from the regulator battery terminal (+) should go to post #1 on the firewall terminal block. This is the same wire that would connect to the original type cutout.

Leave the WL connection open (no connection). Do NOT wire this to the ammeter. On modern electronic systems, a light might be required for an alternator to self excite. I don't think it's required for this application but it's easy enough to add a light if necessary. If it is required, the light MUST be driven from a "key-on" ignition circuit and not a "always hot" battery circuit.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Thursday, November 06, 2014 - 03:15 pm:

Forgot to mention:
You might be able to order new wiring harness smoke but not new generator smoke. Once you let that out, you're SOL.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Andre Valkenaers on Thursday, November 06, 2014 - 04:02 pm:

Dave,
first of all a question:

Why are you going to a Lucas dynamo and regulator??
Why don't you just stay by a good working model T generator and cut out or fun project regulator??

Lucas Generator - Lucas Regulator.
12 volts 25 amps - regulator 12 volts - 22 amps
E = EARTH/GROUND - attach to earth, chassis or any grounded part - either way it goes back to the battery.
D = DISCHARGE/OUTPUT goes to generator -big terminal( marked D )
D = FOR DYNAMO big terminal is connected to the big terminal on the dynamo
F = FIELD goes to the small pin on the generator.
now's where it gets tricky...
WL = warning light-l don't have one of those, but my 26 Tudor has an AMPS gauge.
DON'T CONNECT THIS TO THE AMPs GAUGE. YOU MUST INSTALL A 2W WARNING LIGHT TO MAKE IT WORK. WARNING LIGHT SHOULD BE CONNECTED AT ONE SIDE TO THE WL TERMINAL ON THE REGULATOR AND THE OTHER SIDE ON THE + OF THE BATTERY JUST BEHIND THE CONTACT KEY.
THE AMPs GAUGE SHOULD BE IN THE WIRE FROM THE REGULATOR TO THE BATTERY
B = BATTERY - in this instance the + terminal

On the Ford Tractor 2000 to 7000 this Lucas dynamo and regulator was used from 1968 to 1976 and after that, without great problems. You just need to know how it works.
The problems with the system came as the system was used with a mix of aftermarket parts and original Lucas parts.
Bad and used connections and wires are a killer too.
Just google for the wiring of the ford 2000 to 7000 tractor and you will find a clear wiring schema.

Hope this help

Andre
Belgium


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dare - Just a little South West . on Thursday, November 06, 2014 - 07:06 pm:

Sorry Frank, l should have worded that a little better, no not using the original cut out, just using the wire that attaches to it to feed back to the battery.
Ken thank you,l was right, yes l have zapped the field a couple of light touches.
Andre, thank you l will Google that for a look see.
Regulator is now hiddden under the generator, will Eire it up shortly and see what it does, hopefull my amp gauge doesn't go besserk.
cheers David.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dare - Just a little South West . on Thursday, November 06, 2014 - 07:07 pm:

Then go looking for some spare smoke.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Dare - Just a little South West . on Thursday, November 06, 2014 - 09:30 pm:

Ye har... It works, took about a minute to display on the ammeter, but it got there. Only ran it for about 5 mins, shows a charge of 8 amps, lights on it sits at zero or 1 amp.
thank you all for your help.

No smoke found yet, l will keep searching.

David.


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