Oh me, was just checking out the cause of some black exhaust residue on the gray painted intake.
Thought perhaps the gasket let go in an area. Normal thought, as gaskets can wear. So wiped the area with gloved finger and felt a small blast of air over the digit ??? What the....
Twisted the neck and saw this tiny split, the cause of the mess on the intake.
Sprayed some WD-40 and that confirmed the crack as source of the exhaust leak......
Well now, some repair is due. And this manifold is a newer reproduction too. Guess I can't fault Ford.
Ugh! That sucks. Dan if that's a newer reproduction that cracked - when you take it off you might want to get a straight edge and see if your ports are all flush and even.
Dan if that is a newer reproduction and cracked in an area where you would expect there is a lot of "Meat" I would inspect the rest of that manifold when you get it off there may be other cracks you haven't found yet! Contrary to what Seth said I believe that blows, if your exhaust is sucking you have bigger problems!
That's an odd place for an exhaust manifold to crack. The pressure of the clamp should be fairly centered. Could it be that a piece of old gasket was stuck to the engine at that point? It kind of looks as if there is something higher than the block at that point when looking at the picture. The pressure would then be on that exact point when it was tightened.
That's kind of what my thinking was Norman - really odd place to crack, so maybe ports aren't flat. Your idea of extra bit of gasket is a lot more likely to be the case.
Lol GR - I think we can both agree it's not good! =)
After that manifold comes off, will inspect it more. But theory now is a defect in the modern casting, that then propagated to the small crack.
This manifold is about 10 years old. Gaskets used have been Ford style steel gland ring with copper crush gaskets, and about 3 years ago put on asbestos flat with steel gland rings in the ports. At that time the manifold was very straight.
Dan, I thought the same thing re the casting flaw. The crack looks to have rounded/eroded edges as though the metal didn't flow evenly when the casting was done. This has become a riser for the crack. It is not uncommon to find such flaws in T reverse drums, and we know how they crack. I haad a similar flaw in a modern reproduction drum, which Snyder's promptly replaced with another.
Allan from down under.
Update on the exhaust manifold crack.
Removed the manifold today to replace with a reproduction on hand (uh..ran out of gaskets so waiting now on the Brown Truck ). What I thought was a repro that cracked is actually an original because of the T number, could be wrong, but seems original, has Ford script on the face need the outlet.
Examination shows some flaws like flow lines on the backside.
....but these are yet to be cracks.
However on the port side there is crack going across.
And inside the port is the tiny hole that was puffing out exhaust on the intake, didn't seem to be noisy either, just a little puffing, but sure was on the way to be a bigger problem.
Replacement will fix it.
You can put that on the dollar table for the folks who like to fix up junk.
The reproduction manifolds that are being made nowdays are pretty good. You might can find a good used one at a meet but if you cant the repos will work just fine.
If that is an original manifold, you don't know how many times it has been heated and cooled in almost 100 years! It might have even gotten red hot several times. A small flaw could have been there from day one. Another thing which might have happened, would have been to get it wet with cold water when it was hot. The quick uneven cool down would cause it to crack. A new repro will serve you very well. They look almost identical to the originals.
I'd be tempted to run a bead of brazing over it.
I'd be tempted to run a bead of stick weld over it.
I'd weld about a 1/4 to 3/8 inch and then stop until the manifold cooled.
I have done other manifolds that way, but that's the first T manifold I've ever heard of that cracked.
Since they will get red hot in use sometimes I would think brazing may not hold.
The first time I came to Ca. we had a DKW with a three cylinder SAAB engine adapted into it.
I brazed an exhaust pipe to the manifold to match to the car's exhaust pipe.
It let go pulling a long hill in Nevada and a young guy let me in the shop to use their torch set and I brazed it again myself. they had a welding sign out front.
The same thing happened when we got back to Wisconsin at night and I was fortunate enough to find a gas station with a welding equipment. The mechanics were gone for the night but the pump jockey let me in to braze it again.
When I got home it broke again so I arc welded it and it lasted a few months and another trip to CA. without ever coming apart again.
I was wonderin' if brazing would hold.
Repop on ebay from Snyders $50 plus shipping.
Aaron, what kind of rod would be best to use on that old cast iron?
I'm sure others would like to know too.
Last time I looked at Snyders Antique Car Parts, they had several of the repro exhaust manifolds for $50.00 ea.
I bought one of the Snyder's "scratch & dent" manifolds and am very happy with it, the grinding marks were in an area that is covered up by the carb heat pipe, so nobody will ever be able to tell the difference.
Of course, your results may vary. Still, if you want to get lucky like I did, it wouldn't hurt to call and ask them to pick one out for you with the grinding marks in a similar location.
Here you go.......
Ken, I can't speak for Aron but I save my old cast iron rings and use Harris welco flux 800 with aceteline, works good and you can't tell where the repair was made after grinding back to shape. You will have to pre heat the cast part and let it slow cool in vermiculite or an oven. I have rescued quite a few parts this way thru the years. Cast iron needs to be preheated any way to get good results. I bought some certanium 889sp stick rods a while back that have a really good reputation but are terribly expensive, haven't tried them yet. KGB
Snyders still had some in stock. Shipping for one was $18.25, for two it was $20.65--I bought 2! Even CHEAP! me knows a good deal!!
Forgot to buy the nuts while I was doing this. Oh well, I'll need other parts later. So, 2 "good" ones would have been $170 plus $20.65 ( $190.65), 2 "seconds" were $120.65--that's almost one FREE!!
Ah, one of my favorite words. . . . .
Off to a toy train club meeting, it's raining! (and boy do we need rain here in CA!).