How do I remove this bushing?

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2014: How do I remove this bushing?
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dwight Romberger on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 05:06 pm:

I have to remove the clutch disk drum. There is a brass bushing on the end of the transmission drive shaft. Do I have to remove the bushing or will it slide off when I pull the disk drum?
Thanks, Dwight


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Frank van Ekeren (Australia) on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 05:49 pm:

It shouldn't be stuck on the shaft, that bush is pressed in the drive plate and the bearing surface is the inside of the bush, cut it off, you will need an over size OD bush to fix.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 05:53 pm:

No need to cut, just pull with the puller and it'll go off with the clutch hub.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dwight Romberger on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 07:46 pm:

OK. Thanks!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 08:31 pm:

Why do you need to pull the clutch disk drum?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Shirley on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 09:50 pm:

You might try putting a heavy 4 lb shop hammer under the bushing and tapping the top of the bushing with a lighter hammer. Do this in several places around the bushing and you will stretch the bushing, thus making it lose on the shaft. May take a little time but just keep randomly tapping until it gets lose and you will be able to pull it off with your hand.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 10:50 pm:

Looks like someone did not ream it or was not reamed with enough clearance and it has seized and spun in the the drive plate. Chances are that a off the shelf bushing will no longer work and as Roger K says, you will need a bushing that is over sized on the outside or a better 26/27 drive plate. The early drive plate will not work.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dwight Romberger on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 11:28 pm:

WOW. This started off with a slipping clutch and all I needed was a new clutch spring!

Mark, I have to replace the brake drum because I overtightened the driven plate bolts and cracked two of the "ears."

I am over my head here. So, let me see if I understand. The bushing is a driven plate bushing and it should be pressed into the driven plate. Mine looks thinner than the one in the picture in the catalog. Could it possibly be that someone pressed on the wrong bushing? Should I try a new bushing an see if it is tight before I go to the expense of a better driven plate or a larger OD bushing?

I appreciate any advice.
Thanks,
Dwight


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 11:42 pm:

If the center of the puller does not go down in the inside of the bushing and hit the center hole of the main shaft, all's it will do is pull the center hub and bushing together and stop at that point.

Take the bushing off like Bob says. I use a chisel on one side some times, across length way. But still support the other side of the bushing.

Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Kohnke Rebabbitting on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 11:49 pm:

Just depends how bad the wear is.

But is any case make sure the tail shaft bushing is reamed in a straight line with the brake drum bushing.

We use only one.

Herm.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Saturday, November 08, 2014 - 11:59 pm:

You do know you have to do a complete tear down to get the drum off? Yes if you have the bearing on hand that would be a good place to start.
If you don't have it I would highly recommend getting the transmission rebuild book.
So we are all on the same page, the bushing is pressed into the drive plate not onto the shaft. I think that is what you meant but want to be clear.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dwight Romberger on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 12:04 am:

How do I "make sure the tail shaft bushing is reamed in a straight line with the brake drum bushing?" Is "reaming" something I have to do?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 12:23 am:

Yes it usually has to be reamed. The set of reamers that I have for use, for reaming the transmission bushings, has a stepped reamer that does the brake drum and drive plate as one operation. A shop could center the drive plate and hone the hole to size.
Get the bushing off first so you can check the condition of the shaft. It may be scored from between the time the bushing started seized and to when it seized, or it may be in great shape and the bushing was installed wrong in the first place.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dwight Romberger on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 12:25 am:

If I take the driving plate to a machine shop, would they be able to turn down an oversized bearing to fit? That would seem to me to be the easiest solution?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Gregush Portland Oregon on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 12:31 am:

They should but it has to be the correct material. There are others that can tell you what the correct stock needs to be.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dwight Romberger on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 12:38 am:

OK. Thanks Mark.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dwight Romberger on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 09:09 am:

Thanks Mark.

Can anyone tell me what the correct stock should be?

I looked at McMaster-Carr.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 09:54 am:

"Can anyone tell me what the correct stock should be?"

Are you trying to start another argument? :-)

The "correct stock" is no longer available but there are suitable alternatives. The easiest to get is 360 brass (AKA: bearing bronze.) It is actually a bronze because it contains Tin. This bushing is in an area of extreme heat and the expansion qualities of 360 make it necessary to increase the factory clearance spec by at least .0005" up to .001". This could be why yours seized on the shaft.

If you don't have the tools to insure the bushings are the correct size, installed correctly and with the correct clearances, you are basically wasting your time and money. If it doesn't fail again soon, it will certainly clatter like a 100 year old washing machine.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dwight Romberger on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 11:11 am:

No, Ken. I am doing my best to not start an argument, just seeking information and help.

I very much appreciate both on this adventure.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dwight Romberger on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 11:12 am:

I know just enough to know not to mention what type of clutch discs I am using!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 01:39 pm:

LOL... :-)

Clutch Disks
12V Conversions
Bearing Clearance vs. Material
Definition of Clearance
Oil
Distributors
Alternators
Engine Mods
Paint
and on and on.

These all contribute to ruffled feathers of someone. You might as well open a political or religion thread.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Harold Schwendeman - Sumner,WA on Sunday, November 09, 2014 - 01:53 pm:

Ken - ...."and on and on" for sure! I guess that would include all of what I call,.....all of the "miracle in a can" products,.....like Marvel Mystery Oil, STP, Bardahl, Rislone, etc,etc, and one that must have made millions but now seems to be all but forgotten,..... remember "Motor Honey"? In my opinion, they range in effectivness from a very few that are slightly effective, to "total waste of time, effort and money! "Automotive Snake Oil",....an interesting subject actually,.....harold


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