I have to remove the clutch disk drum. There is a brass bushing on the end of the transmission drive shaft. Do I have to remove the bushing or will it slide off when I pull the disk drum?
It shouldn't be stuck on the shaft, that bush is pressed in the drive plate and the bearing surface is the inside of the bush, cut it off, you will need an over size OD bush to fix.
No need to cut, just pull with the puller and it'll go off with the clutch hub.
Why do you need to pull the clutch disk drum?
You might try putting a heavy 4 lb shop hammer under the bushing and tapping the top of the bushing with a lighter hammer. Do this in several places around the bushing and you will stretch the bushing, thus making it lose on the shaft. May take a little time but just keep randomly tapping until it gets lose and you will be able to pull it off with your hand.
Looks like someone did not ream it or was not reamed with enough clearance and it has seized and spun in the the drive plate. Chances are that a off the shelf bushing will no longer work and as Roger K says, you will need a bushing that is over sized on the outside or a better 26/27 drive plate. The early drive plate will not work.
WOW. This started off with a slipping clutch and all I needed was a new clutch spring!
Mark, I have to replace the brake drum because I overtightened the driven plate bolts and cracked two of the "ears."
I am over my head here. So, let me see if I understand. The bushing is a driven plate bushing and it should be pressed into the driven plate. Mine looks thinner than the one in the picture in the catalog. Could it possibly be that someone pressed on the wrong bushing? Should I try a new bushing an see if it is tight before I go to the expense of a better driven plate or a larger OD bushing?
I appreciate any advice.
If the center of the puller does not go down in the inside of the bushing and hit the center hole of the main shaft, all's it will do is pull the center hub and bushing together and stop at that point.
Take the bushing off like Bob says. I use a chisel on one side some times, across length way. But still support the other side of the bushing.
Just depends how bad the wear is.
But is any case make sure the tail shaft bushing is reamed in a straight line with the brake drum bushing.
We use only one.
You do know you have to do a complete tear down to get the drum off? Yes if you have the bearing on hand that would be a good place to start.
If you don't have it I would highly recommend getting the transmission rebuild book.
So we are all on the same page, the bushing is pressed into the drive plate not onto the shaft. I think that is what you meant but want to be clear.
How do I "make sure the tail shaft bushing is reamed in a straight line with the brake drum bushing?" Is "reaming" something I have to do?
Yes it usually has to be reamed. The set of reamers that I have for use, for reaming the transmission bushings, has a stepped reamer that does the brake drum and drive plate as one operation. A shop could center the drive plate and hone the hole to size.
Get the bushing off first so you can check the condition of the shaft. It may be scored from between the time the bushing started seized and to when it seized, or it may be in great shape and the bushing was installed wrong in the first place.
If I take the driving plate to a machine shop, would they be able to turn down an oversized bearing to fit? That would seem to me to be the easiest solution?
They should but it has to be the correct material. There are others that can tell you what the correct stock needs to be.
OK. Thanks Mark.
Can anyone tell me what the correct stock should be?
I looked at McMaster-Carr.
"Can anyone tell me what the correct stock should be?"
Are you trying to start another argument?
The "correct stock" is no longer available but there are suitable alternatives. The easiest to get is 360 brass (AKA: bearing bronze.) It is actually a bronze because it contains Tin. This bushing is in an area of extreme heat and the expansion qualities of 360 make it necessary to increase the factory clearance spec by at least .0005" up to .001". This could be why yours seized on the shaft.
If you don't have the tools to insure the bushings are the correct size, installed correctly and with the correct clearances, you are basically wasting your time and money. If it doesn't fail again soon, it will certainly clatter like a 100 year old washing machine.
No, Ken. I am doing my best to not start an argument, just seeking information and help.
I very much appreciate both on this adventure.
I know just enough to know not to mention what type of clutch discs I am using!
Bearing Clearance vs. Material
Definition of Clearance
and on and on.
These all contribute to ruffled feathers of someone. You might as well open a political or religion thread.
Ken - ...."and on and on" for sure! I guess that would include all of what I call,.....all of the "miracle in a can" products,.....like Marvel Mystery Oil, STP, Bardahl, Rislone, etc,etc, and one that must have made millions but now seems to be all but forgotten,..... remember "Motor Honey"? In my opinion, they range in effectivness from a very few that are slightly effective, to "total waste of time, effort and money! "Automotive Snake Oil",....an interesting subject actually,.....harold