My right rear outer axle sleeve is stuck. Could anyone tell me which direction it turns for removal? Also, where is the locator dimple positioned? Is it at 12:00? Thanks!
Here is a Steve Jelf video showing him removing the left hand side sleeve with the tool that is available from the vendors:
Looks easy. Mine won't budge. I see that Steve's left-hand sleeve turns clockwise. Does the right one turn that way, also? If I know, I can give it some extra force.
If my ailing memory is right, using the sleeve removal tool from the vendor, and a long screwdriver, I turned it clockwise to get it out. Take the grease cup out in order to more easily get the "stud" to engage to lock it in place. It'll come out. You may have to tap on the screwdriver a bit.
I always turn them to the front. That's the direction of the arrow slot and they tend to collapse into the slot. Turning them backward will cause the trailing V to dig in and spread or tighten.
Did you remove the grease cup? They can extend far enough into the sleeve to keep them from turning.
Yes, I removed the grease cup. I'll give it a few taps now that I know which way it turns. Thanks.
I find something a bit longer then a screwdriver and fits the holes at the end works best. Turn it one way if it don't move turn the other way is how I do it.
The way Mark Gregush does it worked for me also.
All I know, is that one side works best when turned one way. The other side turns best when turned the other way. Unless of course you have a rear end that had a wrong sleeve put in the wrong place. Which I have run into at least twice (yes, I know that creates a problem with the grease cups, but I didn't do it!). I never remember which side turns which way. I have to look and figure it out based upon the relative position of the hole and the V slot. (Like Ken K was explaining) Twist to pull the hole towards the V slot so that it pulls in to collapse the sleeve rather than putting outward pressure the long way around. It works just like self energizing brakes. Only sort of in reverse. You don't want it to stop you.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I bolted a 2X4 to the housing using the drive shaft bearing sleeve threaded holes. Then I clamped the 2X4 to the legs of my work bench. Now the housing is sitting with the differential end on the floor with the bearing end up. That way the housing is held firming in place so you can apply adequate torque to the removal tool. I have a long bolt that will pass thru the removal tool. That way I can twist and pull up at the same time with both hands to remove the sleeve. Some are difficult.
Also, found that the slot on one of my sleeves was packed with dry grease. Cleaned it out and that let the sleeve collapse.
Still no luck, but I found a thread with more tips I can try:
I'd asked about the dimple location, but it was obvious once I removed the grease. The axle is still on the car, so I don't have to clamp it down. Not sure why it's so tight; I'm sure it isn't rusted. I haven't given up yet!
They can get really stuck. I have had a few where old, sticky, grease practically glued the sleeve in place. Off the car, you can soak the end of the housing in gasoline or other solvent of your choice for a few hours. That will often soak in and loosen it right up. But you still have to be sure to turn the correct direction.
I did have one that was worn clear through the top side of the sleeve an area about the size of a quarter. It was so badly distorted and glued by dried grease, even after soaking, it would not come loose. I ended up driving old screwdrivers and chisels between the sleeve and the housing, next to the V slot. I wound up twisting that &@!&#% thing out into a little piece.
Have fun, and good luck!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Success! After bending the sleeve extractor, I tried a tip I found on the Forum. I used a 2.5" hose clamp with a 5/16" ball bearing atop the dimple in the sleeve. The bearing pushed in the dimple enough to fit in a screwdriver and pry out the sleeve slightly. A crescent wrench then compressed the sleeve and it pulled right out.
Phil, that same hose clamp will be very beneficial in getting the new sleeve back in, as would a film of LubriPlate on it too. I have found some of the re-pop sleeves are also a tad too long, so watch for that.