I am in the process of overhauling the rear axle in my 27 Touring car. This is the first time the axle has been apart and it looks pretty good. I will be replacing the original babbitt driveshaft bushing and differential thrust washers. All are worn especially the driveshaft bushing which probably was allowing the pinion to float and causing the noise I had at certain speeds under load. I will also replace all axle bearing sleeves. The inner ones look ok but outers are worn and split. Bearings look ok. The pinion has a little bit of piting on the heel of the teeth. I have another pinion that looks very good but am hesitant to "mix and match". I don't have a ring gear to go with this other pinion as it was in two pieces when I unbolted it. I'd like opinions as to whether it would be better to use my original pinion or go with the one that looks a little better.
Usually the ring gears are worn while the used pinions can look quite ok. It's rare to find a useable ring gear, so many choose new gears. They're sold in sets, (though not necessarily matched) If you mix moderately used gears you may get more noise, though it should work as long as the play is enough.
Be sure to inspect the pinion bearing and it's sleeve on the driveshaft. The sleeve tends to crack, ruining the driveshaft and possibly the whole day if it breaks in hilly terrain.. I've bought a modern pinion bearing from Fun Projects for my faster car.
"Bearings look ok." I hope you're not just eyeballing things. If so, I'd urge you to get the MTCFA axle book and measure carefully. Visual inspection won't tell you whether wear is .002" or .020".
I need information on this subject and maybe Dave will need it as well. I have .025 back lash pinion to ring gear. What thickness ring gear shim will bring it to spec per MTCFA book? PK
Does someone have a drawing for the rear axle holder that bolts to a bench top?
This will work for you
How 'bout these?
: ^ )
Pat, if you build the axle to Ford specifications, then maybe you get play like that, they never checked the play if you read the Service Manual. That's also one of the reasons the ring gears we find today are worn out after many miles, though it's much less risk for breakdown with a large play than if you make it too small. Don't shim between the ring gear and the carrier, the ring gear bolts can shear. Put a shim behind one of the steel thrust plates instead if you want to diminish the play some.
Thanks Roger, being new to T's I'm finding a lot of conflicting information. Having all winter to mess with this standard diff. and a Ruckstell I'm rebuilding I can dink around and try different adjustment recommendations.
Dave, search the archives I found lots of info on T differential rebuilds. PK
If all else fails, try the Ford Service Book, published in 1925. You don't need any more information than that, and you really don't need the special holder either!
Thanks guys. Lots of good input as usual. I do have the MTFCA rear axle book and didn't see anything in it about "matching" ring gears and pinions. I have since been told that matching is not critical with straight cut gears like it is with hypoid gears so I'll use the best pinion that I have along with my original ring gear.
In a post on on Monday, June 08, 2009 Stan Howe shows how to use solder for determining the pinion / ring gear clearance.
Brilliant ! It sure made determining clearance easy for me !