if you can see why this is incorrect for a 1910 runabout let me know aside from the obvious...its my car and was sold to me as a 1910 with a 1917 motor and trans...bet the proper T Heads can point out a lot of non 1910 bits.....i still love it and a lot can happen in 104 years but it would be nice to know exactly what...joe
First the good news -- a nice looking Model T that will give you lots of fun driving time. If you post some additional photos showing the car from different angles it will make it easier for folks to identify different year parts. I’ll only list a few items as I need to run to work.
For example from the single photo I highly suspect it has the 1928-29 Model A wire wheels mounted to the wood wheel hubs of the Model T using some sort of adapter (one style is extremely well made and at the other end of the spectrum I have seen home made welded adapters that were actually for farm wagon low speed use and not 35 mph street use. And there are other styles between those two examples.)
It has the 1921 and later front motor mount (hold the engine and front spring to the frame).
It appears to have front fenders mounted on both the front and back of the car (they look nice so several folks have done that over the years.) Photos of the fenders would help determine what year fronts are mounted where.
From the single photo I would say you have a very nice speedster or a very poor 1910 runabout. But additional photos would clarify if it has a 1910 rear axle, 1913 or earlier frame, [it is a little dark -- but I believe it has the mid 1911 and later two piece spindles and front axle].
If you recently purchased it from a dealer, and they represented it as a 1910 runabout with only the engine changed, you may want to consider your options of returning the car (especially if you paid a price appropriate for an actual 1910 runabout), having the price reduced, etc.
If you purchased it from someone who had inherited the car and didn't know much about it -- then you may still want to consider talking with them.
A lot of variables -- and depending on how the advertisement was worded "as is where is -- not really sure what it is" etc. may also limit your options.
Please don't let this experience keep you from enjoying Model Ts. They are a lot fun and 99.99% of the T folks are great folks.
And it sounds like this is your first T. If so recommend you read the safety tips below:
I also try to include some safety items for new owners. Getting an experienced Model T person to help you learn about your car can save you lots of frustration and possible expense. For example if you fail to retard the spark and you push down on the starting crank at the front of the car to start the car, you could easily break your arm. That is a known safety issue with Model Ts. And it isn’t dangerous as long as you understand what causes it [spark lever advanced [that is the left hand lever on a left hand drive car] it should be pushed up], commutator adjustment rod installed wrong or bent improperly so that even with the spark lever up, the spark is still too far advanced, shorted wire on the commutator, etc. . And if you use the electrical starter that your car should have – if the spark is advanced and the engine back fires – it can damage the starter and/or bendix drive. For additional details please see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/68644.html?1224126132
and there are other related threads.
Some other safety related items:
And be sure the car is in safe working order. An engine that burns oil is not a critical safety issue (at least not in my book) but the front end castor if it is set up negative can flip the car. If the rear axle still has the original babbitt thrust washers you can lose your normal service brake. Those and similar items are well documented "oops" for the T. But if you have never been around one -- they are probably new "data points" for you. Some of them are listed below – not to scare you but to let you learn from others rather than discovering all the lessons on your own.
Safety Glass is nice: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/72116.html
Use safety wire and not lock washers or cotter pins on the two studs holding the wishbone to the underside of the engine.
Lots of safety items http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/69429.html
Over center steering – shouldn’t happen on the later Ts (yours is a later T)– but if someone replaced your later teens steering gear housing or rebuilt it without the lock pin – or installed the wrong length drag link it might happen: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/86345.html as well as: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/300409.html
Types of safety wire: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/41859.html
Example of loss of brakes caused by drive shaft failure: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/47804.html
Top T tips – many of them are safety related also: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/85208.html
Tour safety check list: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/44331.html
And if you have a gas hot water heater in the garage – be very very careful. The float in a Model T Carb will sometimes stick (or trash in the valve) and the carb will leak gasoline. Not too bad if there are no sparks – several homes, garages and cars have been lost when a gas hot water heater was near by and someone started the dishwasher other item that caused it to turn on the burner at the wrong time. Note gas fumes tend to be heavier than regular air …. so they tend to hug the floor. If you adjust your garage door to let the mice in and the air out – that is a temp work around. But replacing the gas fired hot water heater with an electric heater or having the gas one relocated away from the garage is the best thing
Even with a perfectly good and properly adjusted front steering system – if you back up quickly, the front wheels can go full left or full right and pull the steering wheel out of your hand – so remember to back up slowly. It is caused by the caster of the front wheels similar to the casters on the front of the shopping cart – designed to be stable in one direction but not so stable in the opposite direction. Since you have already been driving the car you probably do not have the following problem – but you might still want to check. If someone rebuilt the front axle and it is was really difficult to keep the car going straight they may have inadvertently swapped the front spring perches. There is a left and a right spring perch that tilts the axle so the bottom of the axle is slightly ahead of the top of the axle (5 1/2 degrees positive caster – although there is some discussion that it is a little less but still positive for the balloon tires like you have). If it has negative to neutral caster it can cause a wild ride and also could cause the car to flip even at a slow speed see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/80333.html?1233523419 that shows the spring perch installed incorrectly and how the front axle looks then. Also see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/40382.html Note even with the spring perch installed correctly a bent or shortened wishbone could cause neutral to negative caster.
Also the rear axle thrust bearings if they are babbitt (originally bronze in the 1909-1915 cars and then switched to babbitt on the cars during 1915) can fail with minimal warning leaving the driver without the normal transmission brake (the main regular brake on a stock Model T). See the discussion at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/78685.html?1233159025 If you loose the brakes and you are on a flat area with minimal traffic – it is not nearly as bad as loosing them while going down hill towards a busy intersection. See the rear axle babbitt discussion part way down in the following thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/277093.html?1332591272
Again a T is a faithful servant but it has some known issues that the driver needs to be aware of and to take proper precautions about.
I would encourage you to check out the local Model T Ford club(s) near you. See: http://www.mtfca.com/clubpages/chapters.htm and http://www.modelt.org/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=5&Itemid=15 They can be a real source of encouragement and help you as you learn to maintain the car. Steve Jelf has an excellent set of books he recommends for new owners on his web site at: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/ with the T section at: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG52.html and the recommended books listed at: http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html Note there are also free “how to books” on the internet such – see: http://books.google.com/books?id=uKVAAQAAMAAJ&printsec=frontcover&dq=editions:xR 56bbT2W68C&hl=en&sa=X&ei=tdpWVMi4PMOjgwSAhoC4Ag&ved=0CBcQ6AEwAA#v=onepage&q&f=fa lse and there are others – but I didn’t see a 1926-27 one. And the Ford Service is online at: http://mtfci2002.readyhosting.com/manuals/Model_T_Service_Manual/mtsm.html and does include the 1926 -27 “Improved car” features.
And I’m sure other folks will gladly help with your questions but some additional photos of the car would make it much easier and more accurate. Again welcome aboard!
Hap l9l5 cut off
Not My first T I have a 1915 touring car all original and a 26 touring car (same) I'm from Ireland so not so well versed in the early T's Did not pay big money for this car but it looks nice and I want to find out how un Original it is before I decide what to do with it...ps I also have been a car mechanic for 37 years so I do know small bits about old cars...thanks for the reply.... Joe
I'll add a little to what Hap said about pictures. To find out what bits are correct or not, you want detailed photos of the bits, along with overall views. I'd recommend the following overall views: straight-on front, back, and both sides; four corner views. More detailed shots should include: front springs & suspension, rear springs & suspension, rear axle housings, brake backing plates, drive shaft tube & spool, engine compartment from both sides, coils & box, controls (levers & pedals), firewall (dash) from both sides. Others may suggest more, but these will get you started.
In addition to posting pictures here, you can find a lot of information on your own at the links Hap posted. I'd start with this one http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG80.html with special attention to the encyclopedia.
this is all great stuff... dont really know how to re size a bunch of photos but when I get time I will Try
Hard to tell, but looks like the radius rods are attached below the front axle. If so, you have later spring perches and wishbone. Actually it is a safety improvement, but not correct for the year.
Your car looks very good and if it runs good, know for sure most people who see your car won't know the difference. It only matters if you are going to enter the car in a contest which involves judging.
YFAF . . Yellow Fords Are Faster
The main thing I find obviously wrong with it is quite simple. The fact that it is not in my garage stands out to me.
The only parts seen in the picture that are possibly 104 years old are the cowl lamps. Would need better pictures to be sure.
The headlamps are very late 1914.
The radiator is 1913 - 1916. Not sure if it is original or reproduction.
Looks like a fun car but definitely not a 1910. All the chassis parts that are visible look like 1920 or later. Mors pictures would allow us to tell you more accurate information.
Literature from Ford showing the factory issued 1909-1910 roadster.
Typical 1910 runabout (roadster) with a few added extras for long Glidden tour endurance contest.
I like your wheels
Are you ex-Rockwell GPS birds?
Dan, that is a 1911 Ford T. See the head lights (1911 style), The date on the hood for the Glidden tour is "1911"
No but this is why I like the wheels
PNW green with mossy wheels! Great colors! Ray, what is the box?