I am going to build a motor for a Roof 16 valve head.The Roof is a Model BB. I would like to hear from experienced guys with some ideas of what I should do when building this engine. What type of crank, rods, pistons and also bearings. I want to do this right and I want to go fast so I want to use the best components. I also plan on using the Model T transmission as I have a Ruckstell with high speed gears already in the car, so should I remove the magneto? Any suggestions for this build would be great.Thanks!
Also camshaft suggestions
Also brakes and steering.
haha Mike, yes its a 26 roadster, so its got the nice big rear brake drums and Its got rockymountains
Some of those period racing heads have me intrigued, this (owners description, only 1 of 4 running in the world) Roof 16 valve head, speedster is on the market in Australia and as seen in the photo, has incorporated all the T block ports for the inlet of the head, interesting.
You have a picture of Roof's type A head. There are many more than four running in the world
Alex the type BB head had at least three types of tower stands, so depending on which you have will impact the choice of cam
Contact me and I will be happy to share info that maybe helpful to your build. A lot has to do with how fast you want to turn the engine.
Two Roof type BB's I am working on now
About two weeks ago I got to see and hear a Roof C head engine run. It was amazing that it was a Model t underneath. I want one of those!!
The one I saw was running two Zenith 04 carbs. We can make it go faster with better carbs.
I'm thinking a matched pair of Zenith HP4S or Stromberg MB-1's.
Roof's Ford Flyer ran 4 Zenith HP5A on the C Roof head.
I have have a set of originals with aluminum intake elbows without choke for mine.
Here is another factory option, 2 sidedraft carbs or add the intake off the 8 valve head and use a single updraft.
Four HP5A's would be a lot of carb for anything other than a race car. I'll bet it didn't idle very well. HP4S's are just the best thing that I've ever seen for speedsters and overheads except they are so hard to find. ONE is perfect for the average speedster and TWO will make it stand up and honk and still start and idle great. I'd like to hear one run with four of them or four HP5A's on it. I did a set of two HP5A's for a guy in Florida a couple years ago. They are great looking and running carbs. I make an adjustable needle conversion for them so you can dial in the mixture without changing jets to try to get them to run right. I've made probably a dozen of them so far. Have an HP4S I want to get done to sell for a little extra Christmas money that has the adjustable in it, I had a matched set but sold one to a guy in Australia that only wanted one. Just needs a couple little things, it's the partner to the one I sold to Australia. I have a another similar one, an HP4A, they run like stink on a skunk. This is the HP4S.
So any ideas other than the carb? I have a super nice Master carb with a barrel valve and the original intake for the head. Should I go with a Scat crank and cam? How about a pressurized oil system?
We have a Scat Crank and Stipe 290 cam on our racer with the Roof A head. We also have run a couple of Zenith 04 Carbs that Stan did for us last year which run very well.
We made a short video with the car earlier this year. You can see how well the car pulls and runs with this combination https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vq8gsHWcRT0
Joe, Thanks for that video. Very cool car. Does it have any kind of auxiliary transmission or Ruckstell?
Thanks. It's got an old warford in it at the moment that we don't really use but it's soon going to be replaced with a kc warford.
Since this is a thread about the Roof BB engine build I have a few comments:
- Check the link on this subject: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/411944/473234.html?1411423169
- Use a SCAT crank to your specifications
- Design/get custom pistons with popup similar to the Laurel design for highter CR.
- Reground/custom cam such as Stipe
- Valve train...see comments in the above-referenced link
- Use good engine building practice.
My profile-shown racer was built 25 years ago using a custom counterbalanced crank, custom popup pistons by JE (Jahns), dual '97 carbs and AK distributor. Ruckstell rear end with 3:1 gears. Seems to work fine.