How to Replace the Transmission Band Linings on a Ford Model T
... My much-anticipated video is finally ready!
Please let me know what you think - remember this is a general guide, I recommend you obtain a copy of the Model T Ford Service book.
Also, I welcome you to join the Facebook group for Model T enthusiasts...
...And as always, here's my website if you haven't already visited...
Stay tuned - Mitch.
VERY professionally done! Nice work! The videography was great and I really enjoyed the "old timey" effects.
Haven't had to replace bands yet, but this will be a great help when I do.
Thanks for taking the time to share this.
Once I got past the hypnotising strobes at the first and I found my British to American english translation book, I was fine. Just given you crap. Video was well done. Your way to the books way is a little different regarding starter removal, but as long as it works in the end its all good.
One question, for the video was the steering wheel in place or removed?
Thanks for making the video. I have a car I need to change bands and was wondering how tough it is going to be to do it in car. You make it look easy.
Question for the experts - Mitch soaked his linings before riveting them to the steel bands. Is it OK to mount the linings to the bands first, then soak them? Seems like it would be less messy.
Here's a video that's been out there for a while showing removal and installation of the detachable ear bands through the transmission cover:
Except for incorrectly installing the rivets, it's a pretty good video of the "Long Method". The ends of the rivets should be curled into the band, not just bent over.
The tool for doing this is located here:
I'm thinking I should do a video showing a band change without removing the hogshead. But it will have to be silent so you won't hear what I'm saying.
More experienced folks can tell me if I'm wrong, but I prefer putting the new linings on the bands before the oil soak. A little less messy when you put in the rivets.
I like Mitch's use of sockets for putting in the rivets. Very nice. You can also make a handy tool for spreading them.
Three things I would add:
1 ..I was taught to install the end rivets first, with the 1/4" of lining extending past the end of the band as shown in the video. I use tape to hold it in place when putting in the end rivets. The lining being a little longer than will fit, it will bunch up like this.
You mash down the bulge until the lining lies down evenly all along the length of the band, then you can put in the middle rivet and the others.
2 ..I'd use some kind of sealant along with the gaskets, especially at the front corners where the pan gasket meets the felt.
3 .. Be extremely careful not to drop anything into the transmission. Getting dropped items out can be a colossal headache. Have the key out of the ignition switch before you ever start the job. Before installing springs, washers, and nuts, stuff rags in all the open spaces around the drums to catch anything that gets away from you. Count the rags going in and coming out.
Mitch has done a great job of showing close-up views here. A lot of folks should find this very helpful. I like the period music between sections, too.
Ken is right.
The ends of the linings should also be treated so they don't fray with this stuff.
Herm, why gaps in the linings? Inquiring minds want to know.
It lets the band flex at the bottom, so all the band wears and fits the drum more uniform and not just some area's, and has another oil gap at the bottom.
I have put them on like that for over 40 years, and they last longer.
Got the idea out of the Dyke's Book when I was a mere child.
Steve; I believe it's to help with oil flow to the drum/band. But I've never heard anyone mention a study on it. Seems logical though. Similar to the X in rods.
Ops. I should have refreshed before posting.
Very nicely produced, indeed, Mitch!
I did the bands with Kevlar for my '27 the Kohnke way.
I don't foresee making any more band adjustments for a long time.
When I was a young inexperienced airframe repairer, I came in contact with some very interesting rivets..They were used where you could not get to the backside to buck them.
Seeing the brass ones Mitch used reminded me.
When installing a chemically expanded rivets,
you needed a soldering iron to set the rivet.
The iron when hot would cause the back of the rivet blow the backside of the rivet.
I like the video as next summer, I expect to be re-building a Tranny.
Thanks Mitch for your efforts, we are all the better informed.
I really like that lighter coloured right hand drive tourer near the start of the video. Oh, wait a minute, that's me arriving in my car to "help". ;)
The interesting section went as far as loosening the band nuts, but keeping them on the shafts..... would have been more informative showing his method replacing the trans cover & reconnecting band ears
Thankyou for all your comments...
Steve Jelf -- my collection of tools is somewhat limited, so we did what Henry Ford himself would probably have approved of, and thats is to improvise yes I used a socket to spread the legs on the rivets, then a ball hammer to bend them and secure them.
Mark Strange -- I followed the advice of other T owners and also the manual -- it suggests soaking the bands to make them more supple and easier to fit to the bands. We just let them drip and then mopped off the excess oil with a rag before fitting them to the bands.
Ken Kopsky -- We did the best we could with the tools we had available, and it still worked out fine in the end, the linings are well held
Tyrone Thomas -- We removed the steering wheel, it made the job a lot easier! And it's one thing I forgot to film!