I am going to pull my engine and trans for a complete rebuild this December , and would like to know the best way to pull the engine and trans assembly . I have seen several things , such as an adaptor In one of the spark plug holes, or a strap device around the engine. What works best?
I remove the head and cris cross two chains, the ends of which are bolted into the first and last head bolt holes on each side of the block, the bolts passing thru links in the chain with an equal amount of slack in each chain. Then I grab the chain intersection above cylinder #3 with a hook attached to a cherry picker.
Don't know if it's the best way but sure is easy for me, an eyelet welded into an old spark plug thread and screwed into #3 that gives me the balance to lift the front up so the peddles will clear.
I used the eye screwed in the #3 spark plug hole. No problems.
I use one of these. Works great. https://www.modeltford.com/item/T-LFT-STD.aspx
I used a wire rope sling through the hole between the cylinders. Balance wasn't good so when I got it free I put a chain around the hogshead lifted it a bit and put the chain on the lift hook. It worked well, then set it on a wooden engine stand built from the Plan on Fun Projects.
Using the eye that's screwed in the #3 spark plug hole always worked for me. Works fine using a piece of chain with a portable engine hoist.
I prefer a chain with bolts in two holes fore and aft, minus the unnecessary weight of the head.
I use the lifting eye in the # 4 spark plug hole
The best way to do it is by using what's called an equalizer. It connects to 4 of the head bolts and allows you to adjust the position of the engine/trans assembly to different angles as you move through the stages of pulling it out.
I'm sorry, I don't have a picture of one, but I'll bet that one will magically appear very soon. .
I'm with Spencer - I use the #4 spark plug hole for best lifting balance. Then lift the front by grabbing the hand crank to clear the pedals from the firewall. Don't forget to remove the hood shelves (cleats) so these rear motor mounts don't scratch them!
Engine installation can be really simple and easy if you know how to do it right.
A piece of scrap 2X4 is used to support the driveshaft. The 2X4 is wedged between the frame, under the drive shaft, and resting on the floor on one end. I suppose it was 3 feet long in these pictures, but it could have been longer if that is what you have available.
An old spark plug has the porcelain removed. An eye bolt from Home depot is installed with a nut. Cost about $5, fits in the #3 spark plug hole.
With the engine at this angle it is easy to install the universal joint into the transmission while sitting on the running board. After installing the four bolts in the U-joint ball cap remove the piece of 2X4 before lowering the hoist any further.
Always be sure to grease the bearing on the front motor mount. If the bearing is rusty you could damage the pan while driving on uneven ground. This is a pivot point.
Gee Royce; I've never had the luxury of removing/installing a T motor without a firewall getting in the way so I'd then use the #3 sparkplug hole too. You do good work.
It's a piece of cake without the firewall in the way.