Hello, I have a Ton Truck that I would to push (by hand) out of garage. It doesn't seem to want to roll at all. I know they have the worm gear drive rear end, but shouldn't I be able to make it roll? Thank you
They are tough to roll. I place a floor jack under the rear end and then pull it around the shop that way. Otherwise, when they're cold, you may need more help. I hope there isn't some other problem in the driveline.
Yes, it should roll. Do you have it out of gear? (Hand lever straight up.)
Just installed rebuilt engine. hand lever is straight up. I can jack up the rear and both wheels turn freely. Any other suggestions?
Back when the forum just started I posted to same question....My truck had sat for a few years and I went to roll it out to begins working on it again....It always rolled free,it had a Jumbo aux Trans with a neutral ,and it wouldn't budge....What I did was jack up both rear wheels ,,start it and work the forward and reverse back and forth till it freed up...My theory was and is that the worm drive was worn and sitting like that ,,,it lost the lubrication and stuck on ridges on gears.....After that I would leave it jacked up on rear wheels leave in high gear,,,crank it over when I was out working on it...It only happened when it sat a long time....Didn't make sence to me.....
I can roll my ton truck, it's not nearly as easy as my roadster. Hand lever adjustment?
A model T is always in gear and the only release is the clutch. With the multi disk clutch there is always some drag and it will never be as free as a modern manual transmission. Plus the worm gear makes it harder to roll then a ring/pinion rear end.
For moving by hand you can get a two to one advantage by manually rolling a wheel/tire rather then just pushing on the truck. Either way there will be some drag. It is just the nature of the beast.
With the rear wheels off the floor they turn freely, but in opposite directions, right? They turn like that through the differential, independent of the drive shaft. If that's what's happening it tells you that the rear brakes aren't your problem, and that something's keeping the drive shaft from turning. Transmission brake adjusted too tight? Low pedal linkage disconnected or misadjusted? Clutch out of adjustment? Time to consult the Bible.
Worm drive isn't the problem. My TT has a Muncie auxillary transmission and with it in neutral I can push the truck with one hand.
With a worm gear if there is any drag at all, which there is, that drag is twice just because of the gear ratio. With an axillary transmission there is almost no drag and zero times two = zero.
With Ginom's truck it would make scene to check for an excessively dragging clutch or brakes. In any event it will have more drag then a car or a TT with an axillary transmission neutral.
With a newly installed engine, my money is on the hand brake not being adjusted properly. But the other thing is cold temperatures and thick oil. The thing that makes one hard to hand start is the same thing that makes one hard to push. The 25 clutch discs are all being 'glued' together with cold thick oil. I use 5W-30 to minimize this, but with even that, you can really tell it's cold on a cold morning. I'd hate to think what straight 30 would feel like. No wonder you hear of so many folks who say you have to jack up a tire to start a T.
How can it be the hand brake if both wheels turn freely?
hi gear clutch out of adjustment?
With the hand lever in neutral, turn the engine crank to see of the truck rolls. If so, then the clutch is engaged when it should not be. If the engine cranks and the truck doesn't move then there may be something bound up in the rear or drive shaft. Next, I would pull the plugs on the engine end of the torque tube to check the U-joint pin. If this pin worked out it could prevent the drive shaft from turning. If that looks okay, I would then pull the small back cover on the rear (the one with 4 bolts holding it on) and put a wrench on the nut and try to turn it. If it doesn't move then there are bigger problems. I recently got a rear end housing that showed the results of a front worm gear Hyatt bearing race coming loose (There is a special bolt that holds the race stationary in the housing) and spinning in the housing. It wore out the housing and allowed the worm gear to actually contact the inside of the case. This would most likely would prevent the rear from rolling.
Guys, Thanks for all your suggestions. I will try these ideas over the Thanksgiving holiday.
I move my truck (if needed and not running) by engaging low gear (use a stick to hold down) (or use high in ruxtell low)removing spark plugs (reduce resistance) then turning the crank handle to "wind it" along.