My name is Luis Galmez,I have 20 years old and I came from Chile.
A few weeks ago I get my first Ford T of the year 1926 and i started to fix it by my own. last week fix the engine an made it run after the car was stop for over 15 year ago. It works excellent!!!
in the last weekend a dad`s friend gift me a coil tester but it dosn't work.(view picture at the end) so I need help to restore this coil tester to make it work. Someone know about it? how it work and someone have a guide or instruction about this coil tester?
I found a similar coil tester picture on internet that it is very similar to my own.
( Sorry about my english I hope that my post will be understandable)
While I can't help you with your tester I CAN tell you're doing fine with your English........
Lots better than most Americans would do with Spanish........ ;)
Welcome to the forum.......
Luis, tu inglés es mejor que lo de Google.
Brent Mize restores coil testers. Perhaps he can tell you about yours. http://www.coildoctor.com/
Actually Craig, I'm not sure that Luis' English isn't better than some of us! As Craig said, your post is fine Mr. Galmez, and you have come to the right place. You'll get as much help as you need here,.......harold
Please contact me and I will send you a wiring diagram and answer any questions that I can. Ron Patterson restored the tester in the photo. He has restored dozens and could answer your questions as well.
I will be glad to help,
I am glad to hear you have a Model T Ford. Welcome to the hobby and to the forum! I believe the instruction book at: http://www.funprojects.com/pdf/HCCTManual.pdf will help you better understand how the hand cranked coil test should work. (Thank you John Regan for making that and other technical information available to us. John’s home page is: http://www.funprojects.com/default.aspx and his technical article page is located at: http://www.funprojects.com/techinfo.aspx ) Below is page 3 from that manual:
If that doesn’t provide the information you need recommend you look at the plans for building a Hand Cranked Coil Tester (often called HCCT on the forum). Thank you to Gary Tillstrom for making those available.
And for anyone new to Model T Fords, some safety tips about the cars. While it doesn’t matter what year or for that matter what make parts you use, it is important that you enjoy your car. And there are some known safety items about the Model T that you should check out before you start driving it. (If you are driving slowly on a farm where it doesn’t matter if the brakes fail, the spokes fail, car turns over, etc. – then you can ignore them all). If you have been around Model Ts for while you probably already know about the pitfalls. But if not, I would recommend you review them so you learn about those issues second hand rather than first hand experience. Getting an experienced Model T person to help you learn about your car can save you lots of frustration and possible expense. For example if you fail to retard the spark and you push down on the starting crank at the front of the car to start the car, you could easily break your arm. That is a known safety issue with Model Ts. And it isn’t dangerous as long as you understand what causes it [spark lever advanced [that is the left hand lever on a left hand drive car] it should be pushed up], commutator adjustment rod installed wrong or bent improperly so that even with the spark lever up, the spark is still too far advanced, shorted wire on the commutator, etc. . And if you use the electrical starter that your car should have – if the spark is advanced and the engine back fires – it can damage the starter and/or bendix drive. For additional details please see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/68644.html?1224126132
and there are other related threads.
Some other safety related items:
And be sure the car is in safe working order. An engine that burns oil is not a critical safety issue (at least not in my book) but the front end castor if it is set up negative can flip the car. If the rear axle still has the original babbit thrust washers you can lose your normal service brake. Those and similar items are well documented "oops" for the T. But if you have never been around one -- they are probably new "data points" for you. Some of them are listed below – not to scare you but to let you learn from others rather than discovering all the lessons on your own.
Safety Glass is nice: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/72116.html
Use safety wire and not lock washers or cotter pins on the two studs holding the wishbone to the underside of the engine.
Lots of safety items http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/69429.html
Over center steering – shouldn’t happen on the later Ts (yours is a later T)– but if someone replaced your later teens steering gear housing or rebuilt it without the lock pin – or installed the wrong length drag link it might happen: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/86345.html as well as: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/300409.html
Types of safety wire: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/41859.html
Example of loss of brakes caused by drive shaft failure: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/47804.html
Top T tips – many of them are safety related also: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/85208.html
Tour safety check list: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/44331.html
And if you have a gas hot water heater in the garage – be very very careful. The float in a Model T Carb will sometimes stick (or trash in the valve) and the carb will leak gasoline. Not too bad if there are no sparks – several homes, garages and cars have been lost when a gas hot water heater was near by and someone started the dishwasher other item that caused it to turn on the burner at the wrong time. Note gas fumes tend to be heavier than regular air …. so they tend to hug the floor. If you adjust your garage door to let the mice in and the air out – that is a temp work around. But replacing the gas fired hot water heater with an electric heater or having the gas one relocated away from the garage is the best thing
Even with a perfectly good and properly adjusted front steering system – if you back up quickly, the front wheels can go full left or full right and pull the steering wheel out of your hand – so remember to back up slowly. It is caused by the caster of the front wheels similar to the casters on the front of the shopping cart – designed to be stable in one direction but not so stable in the opposite direction. Since you have already been driving the car you probably do not have the following problem – but you might still want to check. If someone rebuilt the front axle and it is was really difficult to keep the car going straight they may have inadvertently swapped the front spring perches. There is a left and a right spring perch that tilts the axle so the bottom of the axle is slightly ahead of the top of the axle (5 1/2 degrees positive caster – although there is some discussion that it is a little less but still positive for the balloon tires like you have). If it has negative to neutral caster it can cause a wild ride and also could cause the car to flip even at a slow speed see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/80333.html?1233523419 that shows the spring perch installed incorrectly and how the front axle looks then. Also see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/40382.html Note even with the spring perch installed correctly a bent or shortened wishbone could cause neutral to negative caster.
Also the rear axle thrust bearings if they are babbitt (originally bronze in the 1909-1915 cars and then switched to babbitt on the cars during 1915 ref: http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/P-R.htm#rax3 see part number 2528 ) can fail with minimal warning leaving the driver without the normal transmission brake (the main regular brake on a stock Model T). See the discussion at: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/50893/78685.html?1233159025 If you loose the brakes and you are on a flat area with minimal traffic – it is not nearly as bad as loosing them while going down hill towards a busy intersection. See the rear axle babbitt discussion part way down in the following thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/257047/277093.html?1332591272
Wood spokes work fine – but they need to fit tightly, not be split or wood rotted, made of quality wood (pine is not a good choice and yes some folks have offered pine spokes for sale) and the bolts etc. need to be tight without too much wobble in the wheel. see: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/248594.html?1322326314
The Model T is a faithful servant but it has some known issues that the driver needs to be aware of and to take proper precautions about. Again welcome to the forum and the hobby.
Hap l9l5 cut off
Here's the picture Hap posted, unstretched:
Thanks Mark. Sometimes the photo looks "ok" in PowerPoint but looks distorted when I paste it somewhere else. Thanks for setting it straight.
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If the meter needs any repairs or calibration, I can help. I repair and calibrate coil tester meters - both Weston and Jewell. If you have any questions about the meter, please do not hesitate to ask.
Thank you very much for the help.
If you want to know how I go with my project check in this post.