Iím totally new to Model Tís and I just bought a 1927 chassis to start a speedster project Iíve been kicking around in my head for years. Iím hoping someone will help me with a few elementary questions on getting the chassis home.
1) I asked the owner if the chassis will load easily. He said if you jack up the rear, the wheels spin but in opposite directions. He also said if you spin a wheel, the motor turns over. In my vintage Mustangs this would indicate an open differential with the transmission in gear. Is the Model T the same? Could the clutch be stuck or the transmission not be in neutral? Where is neutral? I have had no experience at all with the Model T transmission, clutch and brake systems.
2) Is it better to tie the chassis to trailer by the axles or by the frame?
Brian..Neutral is the emergency brake lever in a straight up position perpendicular to the frame. Moving the stick forward puts the car in high gear and bringing the stick all the way engages the emergency brakes. The Wheels shouldn't roll backwards unless the transmission is in neutral.
Secure the chassis by the frame and be sure to secure both front and back so the chassis doesn't move.
1. Is the hand brake still on the chassis? If so, ask the seller to try put the lever in the vertical position - that should get the transmission in neutral without the rear brake dragging too much.
Ok, not perfect neutral, but as neutral as as it will get without perfect adjustment.
If there's no hand brake to pull you may have to load it with the engine spinning - try pull the plugs and squirt in some oil to reduce drag.
2. You can tie the axles to the trailer, that has worked for me. No need to pull too much forward in the front axle while pulling to the rear in the rear axle, the front wishbone ball may get pulled out of the engine pan, pulling down will hold the light weight chassis in place.
The handbrake is gone. Pulling the plugs and putting some oil in the cylinders sounds like a plan!
A kid sitting on the chassis pressing down the left pedal halfway down may also help while you push it to the trailer. The left pedal gets you in low gear when pressed down and high gear when all the way up. Somewhere in between should get you in neutral.
Mid pedal is reverse and the right pedal is the service brake.
Brian - I all else fails, and the area you'll need to move the chassis is paved, i.e. concrete garage floor, paved driveway, etc, you could buy a pair of those wheel dollies that are available from Harbor Freight Tools and auto parts stores. They work pretty good and you'll probably have use for them in the future anyway. Harbor Freight Tools has them on sale right now I believe,.....you might consider buying 4 of them to have one for each wheel. Just a thought,.....harold
WOW! First word was a "typo"! Meant to say,....(IF) all else fails.....
Jack up the rear end, remove both rear wheels, remove axle keys, re install wheels, push it very easy till you take it apart, Bob
Brian, I always tie my T's down by the axles. The frame needs to be able to move on the suspension. If you tie the frame down, you will be trying to compress the springs. When you bounce the trailer your tie downs will be either tighter or looser as the suspension works. The professionals use nets to tie down the wheels, allowing the vehicle to move on its suspension.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under
Robert is right on the money. I've moved cars like this a couple of times and it works very well.
Thanks for all the information and advice!
Besides a jack, what tools should I bring to pull the wheels and remove the keys? I'm told this has been in storage since the 1950's so I'm guessing some of the parts may be rather fond of each other by now and don't want to come apart.
Sometimes removing the rear wheels can be a major project in itself, sometimes requiring special tools and a LOT of patience.
Suggest you be prepared with an alternate plan in case the wheels are tough to remove
Nix on pulling the wheels away from home,take a good quality come a long and skid it on the trailer!!!!!!!!!!! Not that hard to skid a model T to get it loaded and home!!!!!Bud.
I had a transmission lock up and couldn't roll the car in neutral or turn the engine either. I put a rolling floor jack under one side and winched the car right up on the trailer. Unloaded the same way.
Since it's a chassis only, a few friends could probably pick up the rear end and walk it up onto the trailer. Having someone hold the left pedal half way down would probably be the easiest and simplest thing to do. Pulling the plugs would be my second thing to try. I doubt you'll get the rear wheels loose without a puller and even then, it may be a chore. Even if you did, I wouldn't spin a hub around on an axle. It may not hurt it, no more than you would be doing it, but to me....well.....it just seems......wrong.