Hello again everyone,
I have been slowly taking my T apart, piece by piece and bagging and tagging everything. After removing the rust I have been covering everything in WD40 before placing in Zip-Lock bags.
They seem to be rusting in the bags.
Some of these fasteners will be sitting for a couple of years until I re-assembly the car.
Any tricks to keep them from rusting?
Dip in motor oil, then zip-lock.
IMHO WD-40 is over rated. I use Amsoil spray lube. There is a new one I gotta try. It's called Superzilla. Anyone used it yet? Google superzilla. No connection with mfgr. If it works according to its promo it'll be the new sliced bread.
There is a spray called LPS3 that is designed to prevent rusting with a spray application and it works. It essentially is a thin Jell coating and doesn't drip all over. It can be purchased lots of places - do a google search for it.
Yeah, WD (water dispersal is what it stands for) disapates quickly. It's gained a number of uses over the years that it isn't supposed to be used for. A lube or preservative like the ones suggested above it much better for your problem. Are the bags sealed like Steves? There must be a lot of moisture in the air.
Thanks guys...they are in bags and sealed. I think whatever air got trapped in there must be doing it. I have since moved my "shelf of parts" inside my home instead of in the garage.
The garage gets a lot of moisture due to the sump pump running 24 hours and it gets cold in there.
So, purchasing the right lubricant and bringing the fasteners inside where it is dryer and warmer should work. Funny, the hardest thing so far with dis-assembly has been rust!
Chris, you know about 50/50, right?
Yes Steve, I read about 50/50 on an earlier post. I am going to try this with one ziplock bag and leave the other coated in motor oil and see what happens.
These fasteners are going to be sitting around for a while before I need them again and I would hate for them to get worse without me knowing.
Why not lay them on a piece of cardboard and give them a quick coat of primer? You're already cleaning them once and you're gonna have to do it again cause you're covering them in oil.
Unless the plan is to store it away in a barn for some lucky guy to find in 50 years, then keep doing what you're doing.
I'm with Dan, if the part is to be painted use primer then put in a bag. If no paint use oil, WD40 will work it's way off the part and is only a temp coating. If yo want the best in the business and the cheapest use wal-mart rear end lub.
Put primer on the fasteners? Wouldn't that gum up the threads when they are installed?
Chris, how did you remove the rust in the first place? If you used muriatic acid, not phosphoric acid I could understand. If you mechanically cleaned them then trapped moisture is likely the culprit. You may have to store them with some type of desiccant, if moisture is the problem.
When I store small ferrous parts I clean them then bake them in the oven at 200 degrees till dry. I shoot them while still hot with LPS then bag them. I use my wifes vacuum bagger (only while she's away). I have many bagged parts that have been stored several years using this process with no problems.
Christopher - why not disassemble, bag, and label like you've been doing but wait until you're ready to reassemble to clean them up? Like I said, you're creating double work for yourself.
If you give the a light spray of primer, it will not gum up the threads.
WD 40 is not really intended to prevent rust. It is a water displacing solvent. Great for clearing water from a Model A distributor on a rainy day drive for example.
If you coat the parts in ordinary motor oil they won't rust, provided you keep them away from water. Plastic baggies is one way.
Thank you again folks. Most of the fasteners have been a bear to remove and I have been using WD40 and Liquid Wrench to aid in removal. I have been cleaning them up with scotch brite pads and bagging them. Sounds like I should bag them with motor oil for now and clean them up really good when I finally need to use them.
I like seeing what everyone else does...we all seem to have the perfect combination of techniques and it never hurts to learn more.
There are easy ways to clean small parts, too. one of the best is to put them in a small rock tumbler, or brass reload vibrator, with a good media, and let the machine do all the work.
I found this product to be a real time-saver and very effective for removing rust and then "pickling" the metal for an extended time until you're ready to paint. Get some of this at your local Home Depot and follow the directions. I usually just dip or brush it on the part and let it dry - no harmful effects on the metal either. It won't remove paint or grease, however. You'll need to pre-clean the part with solvent, paint remover, etc. before treatment, but you're going to have to do that anyway. I have some parts sitting on shelves in my shop not in plastic bags that were cleaned with this stuff last year that still look great. If you have an insulated shop, you probably won't have to worry much about moisture collecting on the parts and starting the rust process over again. If your workshop is not insulated, you might still expect to see the rust return. Good luck with your project.