The outer casting on one of my rear axle housings is loose. Any tips for re-riveting? What sort of bucking bar can I use that will fit inside the tube?
Phil
I use a TT rear axle as the inside bucking bar.
I don't have one of those handy. Is the idea a pipe with an O.D. that fits tightly with the rivets in place? Could anyone tell what size I should seek?
Pipe alone is too light in weight. Fill it with concrete would help. If you are heating the rivets to red, it doesn't take a whole lot of backup. You also should anchor the pipe to something heavy or a solid workbench. Mostly because it makes it easier to work around. Have fun!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I suggest that you get a TT rear axle. I'm sure there is one near you.
I use a piece of steel bar with a slight taper cut into it. Works great.
One of my favorite quotes (roughly speaking)
"I have been doing so much for so long with so little, I am now qualified to do anything with nothing."
Usually, I am the one trying to figure out some wild way to get something done without anything resembling a proper tool.
In this case, I happen to have my grandfather's set of tinsmith's anvils. Nothing could do the job better.
Almost any heavy, steel rod or bar several feet long and no less than an inch diameter would be fine. A TT axle would work, but probably a bit short to anchor easily. A heavy trench digging bar might be a bit light, but the length would be better.
I know you can figure out something, Phil.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Wayne, I don't understand why you think a TT axle is too short. It would only need to be a few inches long, but the full length works well as it provides a lot of mass so that the axle doesn't try to drive itself out (because of the taper) of the T housing when you are riveting.
Since I usually have to do these things by myself, I like to have things held in a stable manor. To do their job properly, the rivets must be kept straight in their holes with the heads firmly flat on their side. The rivet must not move around while it is being set. A TT axle will work fine if you can anchor it (U-bolts?) to a stable bench or clamp it in a heavy vise. I personally would prefer something just a couple inches longer than a TT axle that could be simply blocked on a workbench for a bit more stability. When trying to do all the setting, heating and beating of rivets by oneself, stability is important. A good place to set a lit torch is also a nice thing. One of our Australian friends showed pictures a few years ago of a "torch butler" as I call it and prompted me to build one myself. (Pardon me, I sidetrack easily)
A TT axle would probably work fine. Insert into the T housing from the outer end, the gear end of the axle could sit on a block. The tapered end would need to extend out from the pumpkin end of the housing and also sit upon a block. Other simple rigging methods could also be used. I would just be more comfortable if the axle were just a coupe inches longer.
If you have a good strong local friend to hold the TT axle, it would work fine as long as it is held so that the rivets do not slip off from straight.
It has been quite a few years since I have had a TT axle. Although I do know a few people that I am sure I could get one from. Any small enough to fit through the T axle housing, large enough diameter to not bounce when hammered upon, and long enough to block or mount securely, should work fine.
A few other things to consider when tightening up things like rear end housing rivets. Why are they loose? Are rivets broken? Has the housing been Wracked hard enough to be bent or twisted?
Sometimes rivets break because of simple metal fatigue, poor quality material or improper heating during the riveting process. If this is the case, and the parts fit together nice and tight, the easiest repair is to simply replace one rivet at a time until all are good and tight. However, if there is wear between the parts due to parts moving around for a few years, or dirt between the parts? All rivets should be removed and the issues properly dealt with.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I knocked out the front drive shaft bushing today using the drive shaft against a 15/16" socket. The bushing came out nicely, and dropping out also were two of the drive shaft housing rivet heads. So it looks like I'll have two more rivets to replace. Jim Dix suggested an iron pipe wedged against the rivet head. That seems a simple method.
Phil
I am contemplating a job like this.
Do you know the right size of rivet and where to get them?
Langs sells sets of the axle housing rivets:
https://www.modeltford.com/item/2500RIV.aspx
Not sure if the drive shaft rivets are the same size. The holes in mine are 3/16"D and the rivets would be about 3/8" long. "Brazier Head" rivets should work there, I'm thinking. Here is a good source for rivets and to get your questions answered: http://www.bigflatsrivet.com/
Jim Dix, an old car guy, runs this firm.
Phil