A friend asked me the best way to install his front taper leaf spring that has a bump in each leaf not a bolt hole. How do you do it?
I have one and I just wired it with a couple pieces of #12 electrical wire. You can cut it off once front spring clamp is in place and not scratch the paint.
The springs with bumps are buggy springs.
If you think about it, the spring is already center punched. Drill and bolt together as normal. Steve
Mine are the same size as a model T,and very hard. I don't think you're going to drill them with a normal drill.
Are these the ones with the 'bumps'?
I don't think so, Dan -- It sounds like they're talking about aftermarket springs which had a thumbnail-sized "bump" in each leaf where there would normally be a hole for the tie bolt. Each leaf's bump fit into the one above it, and the top one would (sort-of) position the spring in the hole in the crossmember. I've seen a couple of springs like that.
BTW, I've never seen one with the "arch" as in your ad posted above. I wonder how you'd get those centered in the frame accurately?
Mine are tapered and probably aftermarket,but with the cost of a new set,who cares? The top one also has the bump to fit into the frame.You do have to be careful when installing it.
I have never seen the one pictured by Dan T either. The other more common spring "with a bump instead of a hole" is just a small bump punched about halfway through each spring leaf. Otherwise, they are very similar to regular T springs. The theory on the halfway punch is that spring leaves often break at the center-bolt hole. Since the halfway punch doesn't fully cut through the metal, the belief is that the leaf is less likely to break. There may be some truth to it. However, the punch is still a weak spot and could still fracture. Besides, if a spring is properly mounted and tight, it should not break at the bolt because proper tight mounting clamps outside the weak spot.
FWIW. Years ago, I had two of those leaves. While comparing model T parts with a good friend, it was found that he had most of a whole spring, missing the two leaves I had. So I gave them to him in one of the many parts swaps we did years ago. He used the completed spring on his '15 touring. I never saw it (the completed spring not installed under the car). But I think he said something about a special top piece with a centering square to go against the frame, and a small hole on the underside for the successive spring leaf to fit into.
A little trick to know. Carbide tipped drill bits are needed to drill through spring leaves. Good ones are expensive, and you need to know where to buy them. However. Common concrete drill bits are also carbide tipped. If dull, they do need a special grinding stone to sharpen them. But new ones are cheap, readily available, and will drill through a model T spring leaf. I have done so quite a few times. I always seem to be short of the two top spring leaves. I make them from broken longer lower leaves, and have to drill the holes in them.
Just for your consideration.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
These are aftermarket Model t springs not Buggy springs.
Thank you for the wire idea it is working.
And to all others I Thank You for the info....