Yep, I took apart my TT to fix a hole in the radiator and put it back on in October. I decided to test the fix with water (cheaper than anti-freeze if it leaks, right?!). Well, it didn't leak.
And you got it; I forgot to change it over and went out today to find out I split the head about six inches long. My first thought was to get a new head, but, being curious, I came up with another possible "fix".
Has anyone ever used "Automotive Goop" from the parts store to fill a head crack? I used it to plug the radiator top tank and it did great. I don't plan to keep it as a permanent fix, but I'm curious if it will hold up. Thoughts?
I hate it when I do this kinda stuff.
Just posting to give you reassurance that you're not the only one that stupid things happen to.
Many folks have had success with JB Weld for things like this. Are you sure it did not break the block also?
I have a Continental motor on my old welder with a big JB Weld repair on the side of the block, been there for years. PK
We had a John Deere 4020 that developed a coolant leak fairly early in its life. When we pulled the cylinders, we found a casting flaw in the water jacket. We called John Deere, and they told us to repair it with JB weld, 10 years and 7,000 hours later we sold the tractor with out ever having a problems.
I've repaired a cracked water jacket (non-T) twice — the first time with JB Weld and the second with Right Stuff.
In the first case, the JB Weld cracked away from the cast iron and the leak recurred. I suspect the heat-cool/expansion-contraction of the metal caused the separation. The crack had been veed, cleaned, and drilled at each end prior to the repair. Of course, my lack of success with JB Weld runs counter to the positive experience of others and the recommendations of John Deere.
I used Right Stuff for the second repair attempt, and it has worked like a charm with zero leaks in several thousand miles. I have since successfully used Right Stuff for a small block crack on a Model T engine in situ — drained the coolant, cleaned the area of paint and oil, smeared it over the crack and let it cure overnight.
Either way there are many good reasons to attempt this sort of crack repair — low cost, nothing much to lose, a good story to tell your car buddies, and it's very much in the spirit of early low-cost make-do Model T repairs.
-Chris- I've sent you a PM about a T-head I rescued from a salvage yard years ago. My belief is that it is a '26 or '27.
We all do stupid things at times. My 1950 Ford Custom has been off the road for nearly 2 years now because I poured cold water into it after the radiator had boiled dry! That's got to be worse than forgetting to replace the water with antifreeze.
Where are you at, I have some.
How about the block & radiator? Are they ruined too?
I'm in Massachusetts. The weather hasn't been very cold as of yet, but we did have a couple days below freezing, which was just enough time to do the damage. I'm not sure if the block cracked, but one T Club member told me if it was, it would most likely be at the back by #4 cylinder. So far I haven't found a crack there, so I hope I'm ok.
Its likely the block is cracked along the water jacket on the left side of the engine.
Chris, I did my bone headed stupid thing today. I was cutting firewood and the clutch locked up. It was seized tight. So I thought the oiler had quit. Loaded up the saw, drove 35 miles to the repair shop, The guy at the shop pulled the hand guard safety back, spun the chain and said "your good to go" I felt like an idiot. It would not be as bad if I did not know about the safety clutches but I do.
If you want one, I can have it magnafluxed and even planed if you want.