What is the usual cause for lack of clearance between the ring gear and pinion? I've put a nos pinion gear (11 tooth) on, the ring gear appears to be nice and flat on the carrier, the steel washers are within tolerance and the bronze washers are new. The teeth on the pinion gear align perfectly with the ring gear but there is no side to side clearance. What should I be doing differently? I followed Chaffins axle repair book to the letter, and I know the steel washers and thrust washers are all seated nicely.
My thought would be to mill 0.010 off the bronze washer on the ring gear side........I have only re-done two rear axles....there may be a better way or other problems,,,,,,I will watch as learning from others makes this format great....Bob
On the above comment, they sell a 0.10 steel shim for the other side to take up the end play from machining the bronze washer.....Bob
Did you replace the driveshaft bushing? How did you set the pinion gear depth? The pinion gear may be too deep in the ring gear.
Bill, this is why I like to make the two bronze thrust washers two different thicknesses. Then you can juggle the two from side to side to alter the gear lash. You might be able to improve your situation if there is a variance in the thickness of your steel washers/ thrusts. Put the three thinnest ones in the left housing and you may then have enough clearance in the gears.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
The first question probably should be...does the differential turn freely or is it binding? I am also assuming that the steel & bronze thrust washers are not worn/the proper thickness (whatever that is)/equal thickness from one side to the other. If all above is true, my next guess is that the pinion is set to far in. I don't like to use just one side of the axle housings to attach the driveshaft to and check the clearance. I don't think you get a good read by doing it that way. I assemble both housings to the driveshaft and try turning it with the u-joint. That way it is held in the proper position (driveshaft at a perfect? 90 degree angle to the differential) just as it will run in the car.
i use a junk rt side housing with windows cut in it so i can use a feeler Gage to check the clearance.charley
As some have alluded to above, the bronze thrust washers are not just installed out-of-the-box. They are oversize and you have to adjust their thickness to produce the best gear mesh.
I have found that the bronze washers vary dramatically in thickness. When I did the last rear I measured 6 different thrust washers and got 6 different thicknesses. Luckily for me there was a combination that worked just right to give me 0.10 clearance. The same is true for the steel washers and in the past I have occasionally been able to mix and match combinations of steel and bronze washers to get the thickness I needed. It is a tedious task especially with the earlier rear axle housings.
FYI: The last bronze washers I got (few months ago) the holes in the center were not big enough to fit the carriers. Got about 6 or 8 I think and they all were the same way. Check them before you use them. Dan
Yes, I did replace the driveshaft bushing and faced it. I have only used the left housing to attach the driveshaft to but think I will try both housings first.n a The differential rotates very nicely in the housings and I've even tried using some old, undersized thrust washers but still no clearance. I bought the adjustable spool from Fun projects and set the depth accordingly, using the thickest shim they sent. When holding it against the bearing in the spool, the shim plus pinion meshed the teeth up .the full length of the ring teeth so I thought that was correct. I then tightened the pinion gear onto the drive shaft and after putting everything in place found there was no clearance. Now the pinion gear is stuck on the drive shaft and I'm thinking I probably should have used a thinner shim.
To fit the ring and pinion spacing I use a piece of paper and see if it cuts or nice folds in the paper . 4 thousands is about right. Adjust bronze washer to fit.
I'm thinking I need to adjust the thickness of the bronze washer; what is the best way of evenly grinding/sanding the thrust washer? I tried using both housings and still no ring/pinion clearance.
To add to Bill's question: What's a good way to mount a bronze washer in the lathe? Do I just expand the chuck jaws in the I.D., or is there a clever way to keep the cutting tool away from the jaws?
You can expand the jaws into the I.D., as you suggest, or, if your chuck is big enough, you can clamp on the O.D. Let the washer hang off the jaws slightly so the cutter will clear them. Use a dial indicator on the face of the washer to monitor face run out, then tap the washer around slightly to remove that run out. Once it's running true, tighten the jaws and take your cut.
I expand the jaws as it seems to give a better grip. I then turn down the washer leaving about an eighth of an inch clearance by the jaws. Once that is done I remove the ridge with a file.
Could a waterstone (800 grit?) be used to sand down a bronze washer if it were moved around to get an even grind? Or is there a better way?
I adjust the thickness of the bronze washer on a belt sander. Just be sure to apply an equal pressure on all sides of the washer as you sand it. You should stop and check the thickness of the washer frequently to insure that you are removing an equal amount of material from all sides. Check it every 90 degrees. This is easy to do and has worked for me for over 50 years
Perhaps a thicker gasket in the housing may offer additional clearance?
David, the gasket in the centre will affect the side float of the diff assembly within the housings. The pinion to crown wheel clearance will alter as you corner the car. It is a good idea if you are chasing a little clearance rather than trying to take a light cut from a bronze thrust washer.
Hope this helps, Allan fromdown under