Has anyone used Evans Coolant in their Model T? This is a "water less coolant" that prevents corrosion in the motor and radiator. Here's the web page http://www.evanscooling.com/ Please give me any feedback you have. I have just completely rebuilt my motor and radiator and I'm thinking of using Evans Coolant. Thanks Dave Tipton
I used it in the 1914 and was not entirely satisfied.... After some investigation it will NOT work on a thermo-cycle cooled system, the SG does not change when it gets hot so the fluid just sits there and does not cool. It NEEDS a water pump. Enough said....
Tony, thanks for responding> I called tech support at Evans and they don't recommend their coolant in any thermo-cycle motor. Just as you said needs a water pump.
The NPG-R formula will work in thermo-syphon systems (no water pump) because it is thinner and flows easier in the radiator.
Cost about $35/gal. Engine will run hotter but not a problem because the boiling point is higher. I don't know about the anti-corrosion advantage with no aluminum and only cast iron? Probably not good for a leaker because you can not mix water with it.
More discussion at:
"I am running it in my collector cars (including a Model T). I use the NPG-R formula in my cars with thermo-syphon systems (no water pump) because it is thinner and flows easier in the radiator. I don't drive these cars in very cold weather anyway. I use the NPG+ in my cars with a water pump. I have had no overheating problems with any of them. The only problem that I have had is with my 1911 Oakland and that is that the EVANS seems to seep past the packing on the waterpump easier than the antifreeze so it does drip."
I agree with Jim Thode..... as Evans Coolant has been in our '26 for about 10 years.
Great cooling, motometer never gets higher than half way between bottom of circle and the base.
Drawback: If the freeze out plugs aren't seated, the Evans will seep out.
Times that I had to replace head gaskets, or remove the radiator for re-soldering, used the saved Evans containers for containment. Evans is a permanent coolant , the maker says it will not degrade. Whatever engine/radiator sediment from the drained coolant stays in the container, thanks to gravity & time, upon re-installing.
I used it in a 1942 Ford GPW years ago as I had a cracked block, and Evans is a zero pressure coolant as it does not boil at operating temp. I found that it would leak out through the head stud threads, every bolt and stud and to be installed with pipe dope where they went into the water jacket. But the worst part of Evans was the smell. Other than that it is probably the best coolant available and the most expensive.
Firstly, full disclosure: I am a dealer for Evans coolant. I have been using it in my '26 T for several years with no problems. Drove it from Lincoln, Nebraska to San Diego and back. Through the mountains and through the desert in July. No issues. Regarding the formulations. There is no longer NPGR and NPG+ as they have re-worked the formula for the best characteristics of both into one coolant that is now referred to as High Performance. I found it interesting that the only problem that I have had with using the Evans is exactly the same as Jim Thode. In my 1911 Oakland it seeps past the packing in the water pump.
I believe Pete Ratledge uses it in his 1911.
A little bit OT ....
But I run plain distilled water 8 months out of the year in my F350 Diesel Dually - being careful to ' burp ' the cooling system completely
to remove the air when flushing to change over to a coolant mixture during winter ....
Nothing dissipates heat better than water in my humble opinion - I use distilled water.
Nothing causes rust OR CORROSION faster than water too.
Is dissipating heat a problem on modern diesel powered trucks?
Everyday I deal with corrosion in cooling systems. Yesterday it was a heater control valve blocked with crud and badly corroded.
In areas and temps where there is no danger of freezing I'd still use 25% anti-freeze and some soluble oil.