Has any one seen this video at?
The part about good sparks at the points may be flawed logic.
Then too is the fact that the coils can be adjusted with a DC Ammeter while using a 6 volt DC power source.
Then perhaps I just don't understand all I know about those coils!
He alternately calls the holder of the four coils "the coil box" and the individual coil "the coil box". I like to call the holder of the four coils "the coil box" and the individual coils "coils". He calls the point opening "the spark gap". I call the gap at the high tension end "the spark gap". I quit watching when he shoved a coil into the buzz box.
I have one of those testers and the meter on mine doesn't set still during the test. My needle jumps all over the place not giving a steady reading. And because of that, it just sets inside the cabinet on the wall.
James ; I think you need a new capacitor , as usual in plastic coils .
Part of the problem is that DC current runs from positive to negative, north of the Equator and south of the Equator, electrons run from negative to positive.
It is why you have to crank Australian MOdel T's counterclockwise, and the tail lights are on the right side of the car!
Terminology differs on parts names but I think no matter what part of the world, we know what they mean or refer to, actually if you want to be correct by Fords terms, the whole box was just called a 'coil' and what we call a coil is a
'coil unit'. ref, Canadian parts books.
Thanks Dwight---After all these years of cranking it the wrong way --Maybe it may start now ???
From memory Mitch is fairly new to Model T's. He also is a way from most owners being where he is in Manning Valley.
He is obviously keen to add to the workings of a Model T but it can take years to separate what you are often told and can find out on the net so some times one can get it wrong.
I'm sure he would appreciate any expert advice on any mistakes he has unwittingly included in his video's.
The more I learn about coils, the less I realize I know.
My opinion has always been that those black plastic coils were no good when new, but some of them do pass inspection on the StroboSpark now.
I have been told they work best on 12 volts DC, as they were only made and tested to work in that manner.
Someone that knows Mitch could share this thread with him.
I opened one black coil that did not work and found no tar inside at all, only some cardboard forms. Others have tar inside and appear to work well.
I have also been told that if there is sparking at the points, it is either because the high voltage is shorted inside the coil or the capacitor is bad, but the capacitor is almost always bad on original coils.
I generally use the terminology of "coil unit" and "coil box" to define the difference but I probably have been guilty from time to time of not being too strict in that regard.
With reference to "Black plastic coils" - this terminology is somewhat like the term "repro coils" or "repro" anything and that is that there may be many different makers and so the baby may be thrown out with the wash if one does not define exactly the part being discussed.
I would suggest that you do it the same way we do it the same way we do it in the US !
Unless negative and positive are reversed then you have to then counter clock wise instead of clockwise
Mitch is tiring and use's the wrong terms some time but your terms in the US are strange as well to many new members down here, people should read the parts book that suit their area before using names, EG. US Trunk, Aus and UK Boot, US Hood, Aus and UK Bonnet, US Fender, Aus Guard, UK Wing and there are many more I could give you.
Peter from memory there are more T's in his area but only one come's on his site and the others do not come on his site that I have seen.
According to Ford: "coil" = box and coils together; "coil box" = the empty box; "coil unit" = one individual coil.
As to "the more I know about coils": I believe we're able to tell more about the inner workings today than they were concerned about back then. Honestly I kind of keep my knowledge a bit limited. Like a go/no go logic tree. Ohm check, replace the capacitor, clean up or replace the points, paint the top flat black and clean, stain the case. AC terminals of a toy train transformer to see if it works. They either pass each step or they do not. I don't own a HCC tester but I know some one that does and I leave the mysteries of that procedure to him. I don't really need to know more. KISS as they say. I'm not arguing by the way but coil = box & coils together seems like odd terminology. There's a box empty or full and there are coils (coil units if you will) that go in it. My 2 cents.
You cannot properly adjust a coil with a battery and ampmeter. You can set the current and a good spark but you cannot check the coil for multiple sparks which reduces the spark intensity and varies the time of spark. You have to have a hand crank coil tester to do this.
Turn the coil upside down to adjust it. ha